NIPPLY, FRIDAY 23DEC2011

Crew: Klaude, Rick, Dave T., Gary, Tom

Time: 0715-0845

Conditions: Sunny, freezing, offshore wind chill, 3-4 ft, mooshy, high tide, long-peaked closeouts with occasional shoulders.

            Last night both Klaude and Rick told me that they had today off. Both of them were stoked to actually get a weekday session going on. Sometimes I get caught up in my own surf bum ways and forget that not everyone gets to surf every day. Rick was torn, wanting to travel but at the expense of a sketchy forecast. Klaude only had one question, “What time will you be there?” 

            It’s 0630 when my alarm goes off. It’s cold, I’m in my blanket’s grasp, and I check my texts. At 0545 Rick said he’s surfing local. At 0618 Klaude said he’s already out the door. Groggy, I brush out last night’s machaca from El Tarasco’s. I brush so hard that the brush slips and stabs my gums; I hate it when that happens. In an effort to change my bad habit of not eating in the morning, I devour a banana and take my vitamins. Forty-degrees . . . that’s what my wagon’s temperature gauge reads . . . unbelievable. Last spring, one of the coldest mornings I surfed was at Oceanside, forty-four degrees. I’ve never seen a morning this cold here yet. 

            Street cleaning’s on Fridays, but I snag a spot that’s good until 0900. From what I can see, the waves aren’t spectacular enough to make me change in a hurry. It’s pretty much what I expected according to the forecast and after being here for . . . my fourth day straight? The new swell that came in on Wednesday improved the surf a little but not much. There are still more closeouts than there are shoulders, and I’m thinking that this high tide may be helping a little bit. I can tell that the offshores are a little strong because the trees are moving. Cold water, cold air, and wind make me a little hesitant, and then I think about my friend Klaude. Even when the conditions were shitty and even in cold weather, he’d come to the beach to hang out after his shoulder surgery; I shouldn’t be complaining. Gym time and surf has made me sore, but it’s not every day I get to surf with Rick and Klaude during the week, so I’m more-so paddling out to see them than to get waves. 

            Since it’s still kind of early, a lot of surfers are still at home sleeping. I easily spot Klaude but can’t find Rick. The sand is biting-cold, but the water’s warmer than anticipated. Within a couple steps it’s deep enough to lie on my board. Rick has the full-on hood, booties, and gloves setup. He’s with Dave T. and Gary. He tells me about his trip to Big Bear and plans for the holidays. Klaude says he woke up on his own at 0500, frothing to paddle out. “Not bad today,” he says. “I thought it would be small. There’s waves!” I do something that I’m not accustomed to. I shut my mouth on my own thoughts about the swell, sensitive not to kill his stoke or be a downer. I’m trying not to be that guy that says: “Nah, it sucks. It was better yesterday.”

       

          I maneuver around talking to all the fellas and sitting in different spots. And whattaya know, I find myself in perfect position, right on the shoulder, for a long peak forming in the distance. Rick backs off and doesn’t snake me—highly unusual. The wave opens up for a long ride, longest of the week, all the way to shore. My feet are out of place, so no turns, just pumping, trimming, going high and low all the way to the sand. Rick throws me a shaka in the distance. Gary says, “Nice ride!” as I paddle by. It’s nice when your expectations are exceeded unexpectedly. 

            I’m not aggressive; I’m fine with just hanging out and being in the water. At about 0830 the grom patrol arrives. About a dozen kids filter down from the hill; it’s about to get crowded. The local guys are killing it. Roy, obviously, gets his pick of the waves. Don, a bunch of older dudes, all throwing buckets; they just own this spot. Long hair and Magnum P.I. mustaches; they rip. Tom enters the lineup, and now it’s hard to get a wave without anyone on it. It’s almost 0900, so it’s time to go anyway. Leaving the water, I see Christina stretching on the sand, but I can’t say hi because I need to avoid a ticket. I drive by Khang, Dais, and Kotaro who just arrived. I give them my report, and I’m off.

            It was a nice morning being out there for a quick sesh. Now I’m home, Lauren and I are gonna start our day early to do our final Christmas errands. It’s just another mellow morning in the South Bay.