THU 22DEC2011

Crew: Francis, Khang, Dais, and Kotaro

Ran into: Manny A., Dave T., & Jimmy B.

Time: 0830-1030

Conditions: Sunny, warm, offshore, 3-4 ft, fast, walled, high to mid tide, closeouts with occasional corners, weird rip current.

            Still, I can’t get up at first light for the life of me. Blame it on the late nights, the cold, me picking up my routine at the gym again, or maybe it’s those warm blankets that keep me in bed. One thing’s for sure, I’m definitely not that 0530 early riser that I used to be. Today it seemed like a good idea since high tide was early.

            It’s 0745. I’d like to stay in bed, but it’s street cleaning today, so I have to move my car anyway. The jetty looks small as I drive by. I debate on surfing El Porto for a change, like I always do, but just the thought of paying the meters has me continuing my drive. I’m about to give up on free parking until I find two spots on Marine.

            Walking down the hill I can see the ocean. It looks closer than usual because of the high tide. There are still some long, walled-up peaks in the mix, but some of the peaks have that shoulder at the end which looks appealing. It’s another crowded morning, for as we approach Christmas everyone is off. 

            It’s a long paddle out; it takes forever to get to the lineup. My back muscles feel weak; I’m in need of some rest after today. I end up next to Manny A., Jimmy B., and Dave T. Dave picks off a couple of long lefts before I move into his spot. They are all yelling at each other talking about pumpkin-spice pancakes. Manny says, “Matt! Pumpkin-spice pancakes?!”

            “Where?”

            “Uncle Bills.”

            I know exactly what he’s talking about; I’ve been there before. Poor guy, only if he knew that Metro Café serves the best pancake dish: the Sautéed Banana House Special. I just got here anyway, so pancakes are out of the question. I pick off the next left which almost doesn’t let me in. The section’s stretching out long, and then I pump down the line for the whole ride. It’s too fast for me to get a turn, but it’s better than a close out. On the way back to the lineup I see an A-frame break and peel away. I get more rides that are set up more for practicing weight shifting and feet placement to milk the ride. I’m also able to get one turn on a couple; I’m actually having a lot fun, but something’s missing. I’ve been around my friends for the last couple days, and it’s odd not having anyone to share my stoke with. The crowd’s so thick today in front of the main peak. I have a feeling that Francis is in there somewhere. 

            About an hour into my session I spot Dais to my north. I’m able to paddle right next to him, board to board, undetected because of the sun. I haven’t seen him in almost a week. He introduced me to their friend Kotaro who’s visiting from San Diego. Khang is in the lineup too, he says Francis just left. I tell them that the waves were pretty good where I was.

            I don’t know if it’s the tide, but once I find the fellas the shape disappears. The big sets come in close to four feet but they’re just long, shapeless lines. I paddle back to my old spot, but there’s a rip current there that’s pulling people south and outside the break. Kotaro, Dais, and I paddle forever just to get back in position. Khang takes off to join the masses; that’s where the better waves are. Further north in front of Rosecrans the waves are much bigger and more consistent. Our area has momentary lulls while Rosecran’s big, curling lip can be seen in the distance. I see guys pull-in but get pinched inside. Some other guys are cranking good turns. We three work the inside, picking off smaller waves that have shape. 

            Eventually I join Khang. “I’m just going for the closeouts now,” he says. In another fifteen minutes I’m walking back up the hill to my car.

            I expected a little more today as far as shape, but it was still worth it I guess. If I’m right, the South Bay is supposed to get smaller starting tomorrow and into the weekend. I just checked Surfline. Can you believe that Trestles was working today? There’s also some SSW this weekend, but I’m a little hesitant to get skunked again. But sitting here in my living room, reading over this post, I’m still itching for another ride.