Crew: Deathwish Dave, Francis & Klaude
Time: 0900-1015
Conditions: 2-4 ft, walled with beautiful weather.
Surfline’s forecast is decent for today: 2-3 ft with fair conditions. Again, I can’t get out of bed early, but this time I wake up even later at 0830. Gaps in my blinds are gleaming bright; there’s no doubt in my mind that it’s a beautiful day. I grab my gear and walk out in my pajamas. However, as I drive by the jetty the surf looks small again. Since I’m late, I don’t expect any free parking, but luckily I see Dave T. packing up to leave. I pull up to chat with him a little. “It looks small,” I tell him.
“Nah, there’s some chest high sets lining up, but it’s walled.” He tells me that he’s been here since first light, and the surf hasn’t gotten better. I snag his spot when he leaves and make my way to the water. Today’s crowd is just as thin as yesterday’s, maybe even thinner. A set looms in the distance, forms one long line, and closes out. Dave’s easy to spot. He paddles into a close out but falls as he tries to stick the landing. The tide is low, so I walk out to where Klaude ends his ride. I call out to him and say wassup. I duckdive my first wave which feels exceptionally cold, and that’s when I realize that I forgot to zip up my wetsuit. What’s wrong with me?
I’m getting more used to wearing earplugs, but it’s still a little difficult to carry a fluid conversation. I try to make out the shoulders or paddle to the end of the peaks when they form, but they all envelope over, forming into a wall. Every wave is a straight shot. Dave gets the wave of the day. He’s come a long way, and even though today was nothing but dumpsters, on a three-foot closeout he shifts his weight to the tail and sticks the landing. Back in the day, rides like this were all I knew, and there was no differentiating; a wave was a wave.
Despite my shitty session, some young grom in a blue wetsuit is punting and blowing the fins. I see Bruce on his foamie paddle into a closeout early, lean in, and get a little shampoo before it’s all over.
Francis showsup towards the end, but the rest of us are done as the conditions never improved. Dave offers us some Vietnamese sandwiches that he picked up from Garden Grove. I circle around the area looking for him to no avail. I call and apologized for missing him.
yo that grom would be Kyle.. he's OUR grom. Son of Damon and Patty (the asian lady who is always on her foamie in the white wash) He's a real good kid, really nice.
ReplyDeleteCool, we can ride his coat tails once he goes pro. We'll be one of those old farts that get an interview about how much we saw him shred when he was young. Awesome.
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