LOCAL OPTIONS, FRI 27JAN2012 MOR

Loc: PV

Crew: Khang

Time: 0845-1200

Conditions: High tide, mooshy, 4-5 ft, calm, glassy, sunny with light clouds, warm, and uncrowded.

Pre Blog:

     I apologize to anyone reading this that just wants to see how the surf was. When I write it’s not just about the water; it’s about life. Klaude told me that he revolves his life around surfing, and I’m realizing that my blogs are reflecting that. My day isn’t about school or about an errand; it all stems from surfing. So even though there are the moments that I write about the waves, there are a lot of moments that are about get-togethers, friendships, relationships, and other random things. Despite if I have zero followers or sixteen, I’d still be writing this. For those of you that log-on to see what Donny Duckbutter’s up to, I’m happy that you’re here, and I’m glad to share my life with you.

New Swell:

     Rick and I talked for about fifteen minutes yesterday. I think it’s funny. For a guy that can’t surf because he has to work, he sure takes an interest and has as much stoke as someone that’s about to paddle-out the next day. He told me I should go to Churches because it’s going to be good. He also said that the conditions would be perfect: offshore, sunny, and big. I told him that I had my heart set on PV because of the size. “PV?” he said. “Nah, Matt. That’s a mooshy wave, good for longboarders. You’re gonna need more board.”

Inaccurate:

     Khang shoots me a text at 0721 that reads: “Not too big at 26^th. Shape is also so so.” I head there myself at 0800 to take a look. It’s onshore. It’s not what the forecast called for, but the lifeguard station flags are blowing in an unfavorable direction. I take a look at the surf, and the wind is messing it up. Only a couple guys are out. I see Bruce with his binos in the lower lot.

     As I’m driving away I call Khang. He says he’s in the lot with DK. I ask if he wants to come to PV, but he tells me to let him know what it looks like when I get there. 

     I’m not sure what to think of this drive yet. There’s a lot of “stop-and-go.” I have to drive slow, but at least there’s some scenery to look at. 

     I stop at Haggerty’s first, and the swell isn’t big here. It’s about three to four feet but really clean. A small crowd is stationed at the point, and far off, almost by the sand, there’s another peak with guys towards the inside. I’ve never surfed here before, but the spacing looks a little tight. Even though I’ve heard that the crowd is mellow here, it looks like a perfect setup for localism; I’m pretty sure all those guys know each other.

     

     The Cove looks small. I’ve only surfed this place when it was six feet on the average, but it’s looking more like four to five. I shoot Khang an intel text and start changing. He texts me back to say that he’s staying home. A local from 26^th walks up the trail with his board. “No 26^th today?” I ask.

     “No . . . but it’s not that good down there right now.”

     “Really? It looks clean though.”

     “Yeah, but every time you get one there’s a longboarder on it. You need a lot of board. What are you riding?”

     I point towards the JS and say, “Ohhhh, my board’s pretty small for this.”

     I didn’t come out here for nothing. I’m pretty optimistic. I already know where I’m going, where I’ll sit, and I’m not asking for the world. All I want are a couple rides. I take the GoPro to take some stills. It’s just one of those slow, mellow days. I can feel it.

Good Moosh:

     I’ve never surfed PV at high tide. I can see a pack of longboarders sitting at the top of the wave, but I see a peak break wide to the north. That’s where I’m goin’. I already have my expectations. It’s clean, but with the lack of swell it’s really soft. I think this is the perfect place to go when the beach breaks are closing, but not so much when it’s small. It’s just too hard for me to gain speed without the size. Either way, the atmosphere has all the makings of an easy Friday morning. There’s free parking, the crowd’s not thick, there’s no wind here, the ocean looks smooth, and it’s just so damn quiet. Porto and 26^th definitely has more noise but not here. 

     I snap a couple pics of the trail, stash my slippers on the rocks, and make my way out. The rocks aren’t an issue with the high tide, but the paddle feels even longer than the last two times. Half way through, and my rear delts are burning. I wonder how I made it out so fast the last couple go-outs? 

     I sit wide and inside from everyone else. The top of the wave is more consistent, but I can’t compete against the longboards. Another guy and I wait for the scraps. 

     Surprisingly, the session starts off with consistent surf. I feel like the waves are too mooshy to let me in, but I scrape and kick until I’m sliding down. These waves are not critical, but soft, long trimmers. I practice my walking 360 but fall on the rotation. 

     A peak swings so far north that I’m in position to go right. It’s a soft, clean four footer. I concentrate on making the section, pumping the highline until I get to the shoulder. With speed, I carve off the top into a backside cutback and redirect down the line. The wave bogs out right after, but it’s one of the very few times that I’ve pulled off a decent rear-hand cutback. It only hits me now how paramount it is to come off the top of the shoulder with speed. The more rail, the faster and smoother it feels, but I still have a long way to go before this becomes natural.

     I enter a really long lull where nothing breaks towards me. I’ve only been in the water for an hour and a half, and I start thinking about leaving. I look over my right shoulder and see Khang paddling towards me. I say, “Oh shit! I thought you were staying home?”

     “Yeah, but I texted you back.”

     “You just looked for my car?”

     “Yeah, that’s pretty much all I did. Follow the coast and look for your ride.”

     It’s Khang’s first time here. I tell him that it’s slowed down a bit, but just as he enters the lineup a small set rolls through which gives us both waves. With his arrival, the lull ends. He doesn’t stay by me for very long. He paddles just outside of the main peak where everyone is at. 

     It’s a mixed bag of waves that are hard to predict. I gamble on the inside when they break late, and then clean-up sets form out the back. I work on my front side turns, but since the waves are mooshy, and I suck going left, I keep bogging out and falling on the carve. Khang gets a good set-wave going left. I raise my GoPro and rush to snap a pic.

Hard to tell, but that's Khang.

     We decide to call-it after a couple more. Just when I think that the session’s ending on a lame note, I get two lefts. The last one is my wave of the day. It’s only a four-footer, but it’s a little racy. I do my best not to fall, so I tighten up my pumps as I make it past the spilling lip. I look at the wave and have a face to work with. I project up towards my top turn, use my arms for as much torque as possible, and do a decent frontside carve. By no means is it “solid,” but what stands out about this one is that I redirect, pump, and keep momentum; I DON’T BOG OUT! Fuck, it feels so god damn good! I usually stall really bad after the turn. I think the key here is that I used more rail—“I think.” With my momentum I keep pumping and do another carve, but I bog because the wave is done. I’m sure the ride itself didn’t look spectacular, but for me it’s a milestone. 

     Going up the trail, Khang’s feet are being torn apart from the rocks. I offer to share one of my slippers. He refuses, so I leave it behind and walk away, forcing him to take it. “Hey, having one slipper helps!” he says. 

     I do the mellow drive back home, stopping at the signs, letting people pass. An old guy waves at me for letting him go. I’m just cruising through the South Bay, no rush. Everything is better by the beach. It’s sunny and seventy-four degrees. All my windows are rolled down, and the sunroof’s open. I can get used to this routine.