MORE THAN WAVES, DAY 2, SUN 24JUN2012 MOR

Loc: Middles

Crew: Briana

Time: 0700-0900

Conditions: 2-3, offshore, glassy, clean, clear

     I took a look outside the tent upon waking. The first thing to meet my eyes are the glassy waves a mere fifteen yards away. The surf isn’t rideable here, but it means that the surf is clean everywhere else. Old Mans doesn’t have a lot of people yet and neither does Churches, but I know that “they are coming,” so I decide on Middles again.

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     Briana’s feet are a little torn up from the cobblestone dance in and out of Churches. She says if she’s lagging in the water it’s because she’s in pain.

     We walk north of Churches. The competition at Lowers is going on which sends some ripper grommets to Middles, but as soon as we paddle out they leave.

     Even though I’m keeping an eye on Briana, surprisingly, there are little waves here and there for me to catch. Usually I do more, meaning I’m more aggressive, even on the small stuff. However, on this trip I’m distracted, and by distracted I mean distracted in a good way. It’s somewhat refreshing. I’m not mad at myself for not getting turns or aggro over the small waves. Instead I just appreciate the present moment, enjoying Briana, enjoying trimming down two to three foot faces that close out without giving me much to turn on, enjoy the sun on my face and the clear sky.

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     Briana has a hard time paddling out. The surf turns consistent, and it’s a little bigger than yesterday, but she does make it out. Like yesterday, I’m trying to set her up for waves. Again, she’s going for them really late. I mean, the waves are breaking outside, and she’s already paddling towards the inside. I see her face on a big one. It’s funny. Her face lights up, but she’s stoked, catching it on her belly. She gets the longest rides. I hear her scream from the shore. She’s smiling on the way back. That’s all that matters.Once the sun comes out, it’s classic Trestles, just unhindered sun. Even the wind is cooperating, switching south but faint and light. 

     We surf for two hours and do the acclaimed trail back to camp, the trail so special to me and probably any other surf bum that loves this place. Briana says she loves it too. “Good,” I say, “you’re gonna be seeing a lot of this place.”