Loc: 26th
Crew: Francis
Tomorrow Francis is leaving to Oahu to
relocate. KK is flying to Oahu also for vacation, ten days. On this very
morning, it’s my last session with Francis for a while. As behind as I am in
school work, I know that I have to push it aside to spend time with my battle
buddy. He’s been the most consistent surf buddy that I’ve ever had, never
flaking, never making lame excuses, always accountable, always there when he says
he’ll be there, and most importantly . . . always stoked to surf. The first
time I met him was in April of 2011, the first time I surfed County Line.
There are those with names and faces who
fade away and are forgotten, but Francis seems to leave his imprint wherever he
goes. I’ll miss him.
#
It’s Wednesday morning, and I can’t
remember any part of this surf session for the life of me. All I know is that
the waves don’t look too good, but we’re not passing it up, not today. We
paddle out for a couple hours and make do. I tell him that he’s lucky, about to
be in boardshorts weather.
#
There are so many things that we had
planned that we never got to do, like surf other surf spots that I have
military access to that I promised to show him. I told him that I’d make time
to follow him to surf Pacifica and check out his home town. And then there’s
Zenko Sushi in Mission Viejo. We’ve been saying over the past couple of weeks
that we’d do one last Bob’s Hawaiian run in Gardena, but we’ve run out of rope.
Instead of Bob’s this morning, I suggest just going back to the house to kill
whatever’s in the fridge. I forget the reason why, but I have to be home.
I’m doing minor stuff to take care of the
house, while Francis unscrews the single fin off of his board. He also gives me
his 4/3 wetsuit since he damn sure won’t be needing it in Oahu. I’ve never
owned a 4/3 before, so it should come in handy during the winter. We play a
little Modern Warfare 3 to end his stay.
“Matt,” he says, “I had a little talk with
Smokey in the garage. I told him to take care of you.”
That’s nice of him, I’m thinking. He
scrapes all the wax off of his board, shaping it into a dick. It’s not bad, but
the balls are a little out of proportion. We take a pic together to make it
official.
Even though this is goodbye, I can’t help
but treat this like it’s just another day, like it’s not the end. Francis says
he’s traveled around so much that, instead of “bye,” his attitude is more like,
“see you later,” because he knows that he’ll see his friends again. He hops in
Nicole’s Kia and pulls out of my driveway. I hold on to Smokey, making sure he
doesn’t run out of the gate. He throws me one last shaka from the driver’s seat
before driving off.
This post made me teary eyed!
ReplyDeleteYeah, Francis called me after I wrote this. He implied that he felt the love. Gonna miss that guy.
ReplyDeletedude, that picture of smokey...!!! so sad!! but remember, it's A HUI HOU!! never aloha good bye with a friend like fransauce. he's only 5.5 hours away
ReplyDeleteSMokey is bummed. I know, we need to all go out there together and just crash on his floor. Hahaha.
ReplyDelete