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| Gotta protect the investments |
Location:
Churches
Crew: Rick,
Dave T, Gary, Jimmy B, Briana
Conditions:
3 FT, warm, light onshore, inconsistent.
The WHC trickles in, paddling out at
different times. Gary’s first, followed by Dave T, Rick, and then Briana and I.
The fellas head to the top of the wave while Bri and I sit on the south end.
Our spot should be empty, but there are five other guys hunting for scraps too.
I don’t mind most of them, but it’s that one fucking SUP guy that’s getting on
my nerves. He paddles all the way to the outside, catches the wave early, goes
all the way to shore, paddles back out, and does the same thing again. On a
consistent session, this would be fine, but there aren’t enough waves. Another
guy tries to get into a wave, but the SUP dude is already on it. He backs off
and lets the SUP go. He looks at Briana and says, “Wow . . . I wish I could do
that. Just stand-up-paddle and take every wave.” He laughs to himself and
mumbles something as he paddles away. I don’t have anything against SUP guys,
but fucking SHARE THE SURF.
Every once in a while I catch a little
two-to-three footer. Cranky little rights on the inside, good for one solid
turn before closing out in the shallows. With the sun going down, the wave
turns into liquid, black marble. I’m not “ripping it,” but the single shots
feel good, torquing my body and feeling the tail hit the lip.
I try to give Briana some pointers, but the
look on her face shows that she’s annoyed. I’m failing as a teacher, probably
like how my bro is a good surfer, but we bumped heads a lot in Bali when he was
trying to give me advice. Afterwards, she says that I put a lot of pressure on
her, that she can’t figure out if she loves surfing if she has to worry about
impressing me as well. I tell her that the next time I’ll let her do her own
thing, and that it’s all about having fun. I think I’ve forgotten that.
#
Now
I’m home. It’s midnight, and I’m packing for a two-week military school in
Massachusetts. I’ll miss my living room, PS3, Bri, and the ocean.
#
THE EAST COAST IN A NUTSHELL:
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| My classmates said I look like this guy. He is a goofy foot. . . . |
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| $15 New England price |
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| Bananas are good for blood pressure |
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