OLD ETIQUETTE (double sesh), TUE 21AUG2012 EVE

Location: Old Mans

Crew: Briana

Conditions: 2-3 FT, hot, light onshore, consistent, crowded.

     Bri and I take another gander at Churches from the lookout point, but we both know that we’re not going there.

     There’s something about surfing small waves on a funboard that makes it easier to surf while intoxicated. For one, the waves are so small that there’s no need to duckdive, fight a current, or worry about getting thrashed on the inside. Second, Zippy makes it easy to catch waves that I’m not expending as much energy to get the drop. Third, being that this is Old Mans, the way the wave breaks here is so beginner friendly. I couldn’t imagine surfing Porto in the winter at first light after a six pack. Nope, that’s what summer time at Old Mans is for.

#

     We paddle out to our break much earlier than yesterday to make sure we can milk our last evening session here. Unlike yesterday, it’s a little crowded this evening . . . on a Tuesday.

     Two guys are paddling, lying too far back on their boards. They scratch out on all the waves. This is a comforting sight since Briana is learning as well.

     I catch a right, but in front of me is a guy standing in the shallows. I keep an eye on him, ensuring that I’ll steer clear, but he smiles and waves me past him as if saying, “Go ahead, you’re clear.”

     Back at the lineup, I motion towards an outside wave. This Japanese longboarder with long hair is in the perfect spot sitting still. He starts to turn like he’s going for it, but he looks back when he hears me paddling. He returns his gaze to the horizon, motionless. I take the wave.

#

     The waves are lining up better this evening, so I get long rides all the way to the inside. A long wall with a shoulder sprouts on the outside. I see it. I casually paddle to the shoulder and stroke my way in, but I scratch out. I watch the long peeler roll away from behind, empty without a rider.

     I go into a bout of cursing at myself because I got complacent and lazy, and I blew it. I make the mental note to still stroke hard and kick until I get the drop.

     Bri’s even more consistent, still struggling to stand but milking each ride a little longer than the last. I’ve left her alone this whole trip, and it’s paid off. She’s spotting waves for herself, being alert and aware of other people on the waves, and she’s gotten more comfortable in the crowd. I’m glad I’ve been able to turn off my “control freak” switch and let her discover things on her own.

#

     We stay out until dark because some other people are still surfing, but once we’re the last two we head in. A full day of relaxing, drinking and surfing catches up to us. Tonight’s meal is excellent, but we can’t keep our eyes open through the second act of Nacho Libre. 

     It’s our last night here. The last couple days have gone so fast; I wish we had another day. I guess I just love this place so much that it’s hard to leave every time, whether I’m sleeping in my wagon, tent, or a cottage.