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| My dog Smokey murdered this critter. Discovered this while pre-packing for the trip |
Loc: Old
Mans
Crew: Bri
Conditions:
2-3 ft+, sunny, glassy, high tide.
Pre Blog:
It’s now
official that Fridays are no longer just a normal Fridays but STAYCATION FRIDAYS.
After a grueling week of school (discounting Friday), Friday is the day to
unwind, strictly a day for both surf and quality time with Briana. The last
time we staycationed it, we arrived late and got shitty parking. But . . . not
today. . . .
#
Ideally, we should be leaving at 0545, but
we leave my drive way a little before 0700. The first stop is Vons. The plan is
to go to San Onofre, find good parking and stay for the WHOLE DAY. Therefore,
the only time we’ll move the car is when we leave. That being said, we need victuals
to hold us down. It sounds like a tedious task, especially when road trip
syndrome is suspect. Suddenly one feels that he needs this . . . and that . . .
and the Oreos, ice, beer, bananas, crackers, etc. Instead, Briana buys the
biggest, fucking pre-made deli sandwich they have which is like a foot and a
half long and seven inches wide. She also grabs a gallon of water and . . .
Double Stuff Oreos.
#
Before school started, I used to pride
myself in being one of the first guys at the beach, getting good parking. Since
then, dawn patrolling has been a bit difficult with school. All I know right
now is that we’re running late. Driving on the 405 South, the sun is rising to
the east. We should be on the shore experiencing this, not in my car with the
windows rolled up, smelling my farts.
The Spot:
To beat the crowds, I think a mid week
session would be better, say a Tuesday or a Wednesday. On Friday, I think people
are a little frothier. It’s the end of the week. Most students don’t have
classes on Friday. For high schoolers and workers alike, Friday would be the
day to show up a little late. Despite these factors, Brianna and I still get
prime parking under a big shady tree, the perfect site for a staycation.
Don K. Fish
Pt. II:
I pull out Cheryl’s Fish. I’m thinking,
today’s the day. I gotta see what this sucker can do. Even though there’s
already a generous amount of wax on it, I put on a little more. Actually now that I think of it, there is so
much goddam wax on that board. If Cheryl stripped it off it would bring its
weight down a couple pounds.
Briana’s stoked to surf Old Mans.
It’s her favorite spot. If I surfed here as a beginner, it would’ve been my
favorite spot too. I think learning to surf at Porto has its advantages. I
remember surfing Trestles for the first time, the waves were so slopey that I
could barely get into them. Well, right now Briana has the luxury of catching
soft, forgiving, gentle waves. . . . She’s spoiled.
The tide’s on its way up; the window for
good surf is closing upon us, so we gotta get out while we can. The sun’s out,
and the wind is faint. We paddle to the northern tip of the first break at Old
Mans. We’re not where the main pack is, but some waves swing wide to where
we’re sitting.
#
It’s a little hard. . . . I can’t believe I
expected this fish to catch waves like the Zippy. It doesn’t. The Zippy is just
way too meaty to even compare. As far as tiny waves on the DK, I scratch and
kick but get left behind. I’m doubtful that my board selection is right today.
And then out of nowhere, bumps pop up on the horizon. I get my first right. It’s
three feet and peaky, down the line. It’s reminiscent on the good days I used
to catch at Middles, just slopey, rippable bastards. I already feel how the
board’s looser upon dropping in; they rail is more cooperative than the Zippy,
and the board’s more responsive to my feet. My bottom turn is sharp and
aggressive. Even though Old Mans is renowned for being soft and mooshy, this
inside wave stands up a bit. As I bottom turn, I see the wave lining up. The
Don K feels different. It’s a little odd seeing how close the nose is and how
there’s less rocker. I climb the face with ease and get a nice, snappy backhand
turn. This feels good. I pump and go for my second snap; it’s a little critical
because the lip is curling. I hit the lip but my feet become unstuck, and the
board continues on without me.
I catch another right and the same thing
happens. Not sure if I need a traction pad or if I shouldn’t be turning so late
on a fish.
I really want to open up on some lefts, and
I’m more than satisfied with the Don K going frontside. Since there’s a little
bit of size to work with, and good shape, I open up the ride with a lot of
speed from the drop. I climb the face and get a good, swooping carve. The
thickness of the rail gives me a lot of speed, and it transfers well through
the motion. I redirect, but since the tide is coming up and this is an inside
wave, the end section’s a little crumbly.
#
Even though there are good waves to be had,
it’s still a little inconsistent. The in-between waves are on the small side,
hard to get into or not good for more than trimming. For these waves I need
more volume. The tide gets even higher and really slows things down. Also, the
wind starts to switch and goes onshore.
Briana and I head back to our spot. No one
parked next to us. We have a rinsing shower to ourselves situated on a large,
concrete slab, good for getting all the and off. The tree also provides a good
hanging area to dry our gear. We rip into that Von’s sandwich and kill the
whole fucking thing.
I try to write, Briana tries to do
homework, but it’s hard not to get distracted by the wonderful beach, the
ocean, the waves, and just the whole atmosphere. We find ourselves going back
and forth from the car to our blanket on the sand. We play cards and lie out
until we fall asleep for an afternoon nappy poo.
DON K
Results:
No matter what, I can’t complain. I just
wanted a chance to see what this board could do. Cheryl’s Don K fish is good
for turns and performance, but not really ideal for one-to-two foot waves,
unless they are round unlike mooshy Old Mans. For tiny, mooshy waves, I’d
rather be on the Zippy because it has so much volume, but then there’s the
disadvantage of riding something that’s less maneuverable. Right now my surfing
is in its turning/carving stage, which the Don K. is perfect for but with at
least three feet of surf. I’d really love to invest in one, but right now money
is tight. Especially with the winter coming on soon, I’d better get used to
riding a thruster again, especially if I end up going to back to Indo this next
summer.
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