Loc:
Churches
Time: 1530-1730
Crew: Bri
Conditions:
2-4 FT, glassy, warm, sunny, inconsistent.
It was a little more crowded that
afternoon. After Bri and I ate, she took a nap on the sand, and I did the
repair job on my Tokoro. The job ended up a little shoddy, but at least it will
keep the water out.
The sun was getting low. Waves were still
coming in, and the lineup was a little crowded. I made Briana wake up at 1500. “We
gotta get out there,” I said.
We paddled out at the same spot, but now,
for sure . . . the waves were only breaking at the two peaks. We didn’t want to
compete for waves, but after a while I couldn’t take it. I muscled my way in.
The surf turned inconsistent, but there
were bigger waves on the sets. Once the sun went down, people started clearing
out, and that’s when Bri and I did the most damage.
I got some decent bombs, but I probably
lost my wave of the day. Out of frustration from the crowd, I pumped a little
too hard going backside, and I lost my footing and fell.
Briana got less rides than the morning, but
she did get one, decent down-the-line right. Too bad she had to kick-out early
because somebody was on it.
I got a last wave when it was dark. I
couldn’t believe how long this ride was—unbelievable. I got five, backhand hits
off the lip.
Anyway, this entry is short because I’m
tired as fuck.
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