BIRTHDAY STAYCATION (double sesh), FRI 30NOV2012 EVE

Loc: Churches

Crew: Bri

Conditions: 3 FT, low tide, foggy, overcast.

     I wake at 1500. I close my eyes. It’s now 1600. Fuck me. We overslept and barely have a half hour before the sun goes down. I prop myself up on my elbows and take a look outside. The marine layer is even thicker than this morning, and even though the sun is up somewhere behind the overcast, its effects are minimal.

     I tell Bri to get up. “We don’t have much time,” I say. The original plan was to go back to Middles, but without much light left, we have to surf at Churches.

     The tide is ridiculously low, making the main peak at the center of the break consistent, but everywhere else is inconsistent. Even though it’s late, there are enough people out to make it a crowd.

     We paddle out and don’t get much because nothing is swinging wide. It’s not until we paddle past the top of the wave and have a chance to catch the set waves early, that we’re able to get some waves.

     Bri is still worn out from this morning, and she’s frustrated with the crowd; so am I. Within the next twenty minutes people start to leave. Now we’re able to catch some waves. I don’t get any rides of supreme significance, but I still manage a couple turns. Some of the waves are too mooshy and weak, so I stall on the back-hand snap and get left behind.

     Now it’s dark, so dark that we can barely see each other out here. The sky’s now a dark, purplish grey, and the few lights in the mountains and at the nuclear plant give the dark canvas some life. Bri says she’s scared, but I’m not worried, so long as there are a couple other guys out as well. Once it’s down to just three of us, we leave.

     It’s still drizzling when we change, so we bring our towels and change at the bathrooms where there’s light. We’re getting wet while we’re packing and strapping up the NSP to the roof. It’s barely past 1800, but it’s one hundred percent night outside. We ponder at how we would just be paddling out for our evening sessions at this time during the summer. It drizzles on the way home with a few pockets of heavier rain, but inside the car it’s muggy and humid, the way it should be from two people that spent the day surfing.