Loc:
Manhattan Beach
Crew:
Randy, Klaude, and Cheryl
Conditions:
4FT+, high tide, soft, mooshy, consistent, sunny.
Compared to yesterday, this is nothing.
Klaude, KK, and I drove here together. It doesn’t look that hot. The wind is on
it a little, making it choppy. The size went down severely. I suggest checking
Porto, but Randy says that we might as well just surf here.
There’s a pack of groms sitting on a peak.
Klaude and I head there, but my brother heads further north. Klaude and I don’t
even try to rush the session; we’re both spent from yesterday and are actually
grateful that today is much mellower. Whenever we have a chance for a wave, a
grom’s already on it, so we head towards Randy.
A wave comes his way. He’s on the outside,
eyeing it. A guy on the inside wants to paddle for it. Randy smiles, and
motions his head, signaling the other surfer to go ahead. I’ve never seen this
generous side of his surfing, at least not with other people besides myself.
The waves are mooshy from the tide, but since
there is a little size they still have a little push to them. As opposed to
yesterday, we all catch a lot of waves. Not all of them are long, but they are
still fun. Randy gets the wave of the session, cranking out turns on the 5’8,
tossing water out the back from his cutbacks. He goes all the way to shore.
Then Klaude gets a long, front-side right. I see his head pop up over the wave
as he climbs the face and downturns. He catches the wave so far that it’s
minutes before I see him again.
I manage to get one long ride too, but it’s
too mooshy for me to turn on. I get a couple rights that offer a some good,
snappy sections, but I don’t get more than two turns.
Our spot is sold, as its now too crowded
for me and Klaude. Randy stays while Klaude and I head back towards 26th.
Randy follows a little later. I see Cheryl warming up on the sand. She has my
old Becker board. I imagine she’ll have a hard time paddling out. Even though
it’s not big like yesterday, there are still some juicy sets coming through.
Eventually she makes it out and gets some face time with everyone. It’s nice to
see her in the water, especially after it’s been so long.
Despite the high tide and increased lull,
the waves are getting better. Some four-to-five foot rights start coming in. I
have to pass on a couple because guys are already on them, but I get one of the
set waves, perfectly setting me up for my cleanest top turn of the morning. It’s
enough to be satisfied with.
Randy’s on the sand waiting for us. He’s
tired. We all are. I tell Cheryl I’m going in. I meet Randy and Klaude on the
sand. Klaude points towards someone’s board that’s broken in half, clean break.
I take a closer look. It’s the Lost board that I bought off of my brother.
“I did an air and landed in the flats,” says
Randy.
Just like that, broken board. There’s one
less board in my quiver, but Randy said he’d let me have his Patterson, so . .
. I guess it all evens out.
We head to The Blue Butterfly in El Segundo
for a post surf meal, and then we head back to the house and watch some surf
porn. Just a non critical session followed by a non critical day. Did I have a
pretty long hold down yesterday?
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