Loc: Manhattan
Beach
Time: 0700-0900
Crew: Klaude
& Khang
Conditions:
2-3 FT, offshore, sunny, cold, high tide, mooshy, crowded.
Since moving into my apartment, I really
want to save money and surf local as much as possible, so the call to surf it
local on the last day of 2012 is a no brainer, but I guess it was also a no
brainer to the South Bay community as well.
When I show up, Klaude is already in the
water. I warm up only for a moment and make my way out. Klaude’s going for a left-handed
wave directly in front of me. I’m preparing to duckdive but notice he gives a
look of frustration and goes right instead. He later tells me, he didn’t know
it was me.
Khang tries to sneak up behind Klaude, but
I blow Khang’s cover by acknowledging him.
The session starts out fun. Even though the
tide is high, some nice, two-to-three foot shoulders are rolling in. Roy gets
dibs, easily getting whatever wave he wishes. On the next left, I put my chin
down on my board, paddle, and kick my feet. I drop into the small wave with
speed. The mooshy section ahead of me is flat and spilling, but I manage to pump
and make it to the open face. When the wave is closer to the inside, it stands
up more. I have so much momentum on this little wave it catches me off guard. I
feel the volume of the rail helping me get down the line quicker. I climb the
wave at mid face and get a little check turn off the lip. From there I redirect,
pump, and complete my ride on the inside shoulder with a small, finishing
carve. It’s my wave of the day.
When I paddle back, Khang and Klaude tell
me that the board looks good under me.
From there, something happens. The tide gets
higher, slowing down the surf, and everyone who decided to wait it out until
the surf got better is now in the water. It’s just as crowded as Porto was
yesterday. I stay south away from everyone else.
The session becomes frustrating. The waves
moosh out to the point that only the longboarders can get them, and later on
even they have problems catching waves too. It must have been good at first
light, but that was my loss.
#
For New Year’s Eve, Khang works and KK has
plans to mellow out with his family. We plan to surf here tomorrow. I spend New
Year’s Eve alone, since Bri is working. Even though I’m alone, I’m stoked to
have a moment by myself in my new apartment. I get some invites to go out, but
after this hectic holiday season, I just want to relax. A couple firecrackers
go off outside, but it’s not much. I cook the only food I have in the fridge,
which is eggs, turkey bacon, and rice. After I’m done eating, I sit down and
start catching up on my blogs. Even though I’m not doing much tonight, this is still
a significant day. Solo in my apartment on New Year’s Eve, it’s nice to
officially mark this new beginning.
No comments:
Post a Comment