Loc: Huntington
Beach
Crew: Solo
Conditions:
2-3 FT, cool, sunny, offshore, clean, crowded, inconsistent, swampy.
Despite going to bed around two in the
morning, I still wake up at 0600 and get ready to surf. Seba’s sleeping on my
futon when I leave. That’s the only thing about living in a small studio, not
much room when the homies want to crash. If I’m just with Bri, then that’s no
big deal.
My expectations are high, yes; of course
they are, especially after the fun surf yesterday. I witnessed the potential of
the oncoming swell, so I know today is good. I get to the beach, seeing surfers
parking and heading towards the water. And then . . . there are no fucking
waves. What the fuck. . .
It’s roughly mid tide, but the conditions
look a little swampy. There’s morning sickness. The inside is churning and the
surface is bumpy, despite the good wind and warm air. The waves break on the
outside but fizzle into nothing. The river mouth looks okay but there are a lot
of people there. But I’m optimistic because . . . the tide is gonna come down,
and then, THEN the surf will start pumping. I have my handy Tokoro with me. I
haven’t ridden it since that fateful day that a fin broke off of it. That was
months ago on a solid swell at Manhattan Beach. I wonder if I should go back
and grab the Motorboat for these mooshy conditions, but there’s no need for it
with the tide coming down.
I sit. Sure, I catch a couple fizzlers, but
not TURNS. There are inconstant sets that break on the outside. Nice, dredging
peaks, where the base of them is so dark while the lip folds over them,
A-framing on the lefts and walled on the rights, so I paddle to the outside and
then . . . nothing. Motherfucker.
An hour later, it’s so crowded. The people
must know that this place sucks at high tide, but I’ve already been out for
over an hour and a half. For shame, I begin my paddle in, catching a small
inside wave. I try a backhand snap, but the wave mooshes out.
I drive home, resigned to the fact that I’ll
only surf HB on the days I have school from now on. There’s no need to gamble
and lose because that’s gas money right out of my wallet right there. SKUNKED.
Forecasting has been way off lately. Every time I go out, it's almost flat.
ReplyDeleteGK, thanks for commenting. I heard that the surf has been mucho small in the South Bay, with the south swells completely missing us. I'm gonna gamble again tomorrow. I hope I score. Good luck to you surfing local.
ReplyDelete