Loc:
Manhattan Beach
Crew: Bri
& Khang
Conditions:
2-3 FT, sunny, cool, uncrowded.
Bri and I had planned to dawn patrol at PV.
On the way there we stopped at Manhattan Beach. The tide was drained out, so
the surf looked a little crumbly but consistent. Since the tide was low, I
thought that PV was the right call. Once we got there, we saw that the waves
were even smaller, despite the low tide.
At Manhattan Beach, a lot of surfers must
have felt that the morning tide was unappealing too, so luckily, when we returned
for another look, we scored free parking by The Strand.
Not expecting much for surf, I whipped out
CC’s Zippi Fish; it seemed like the right choice for equipment.
It was a rare morning when even not many of
the usual locals were out. The conditions were good for Bri: small, beach break
that breaks a little faster than Old Mans and Churches. I got a bunch of little
waves on the Zippi, for it’s so easy to catch waves on it, just like a
longboard. I caught a left and timed the section right before it closed,
climbing the face going frontside. For the first time in my life, I felt the
momentum of a legit floater on top of the lip. I’ve never pulled that off
before, not with that much hang time. I stuck the landing with speed before the
ride closed out. Of course, I needed the volume of a fish to do it, but it was
still fun and a good experience.
I spotted Khang on the sand, just making
his way to the water line. It’s not very often that I bump into my buddies mid
week, but I figured that he got a random day off.
So now the three of us were surfing, which
was cool because Briana has enough surf knowledge (through me) that she can do
surf talk with my buds. While they talked, I did my own thing, trying to milk
as many rides as I could.
Even though the surf wasn’t big, there were
some decent, three footers that started rolling through. I contemplated whether
or not I should swap out boards for my Motorboat Too. When Khang started
catching wave after wave on his Neckbeard, I went in and grabbed my other
board.
I had got on Briana about passing up waves
during our last trip. She and Khang were sitting in the lineup when a peaky
left rolled in. Khang said, “Wow, this looks like a wave. . . This is a wave!”
Briana grabbed her rails but hesitated.
“Should I go?” she said.
“Yeah!” said Khang, “yeah, you should go!”
She turned, and since the wave was breaking a little fast, she didn’t need much
momentum to pop up. She caught a nice little ride. We were both stoked for her.
Khang was doing really well. Even on the
small, mooshy waves, he was able to get into them, usually tossing out some
water over the back after each ride. I wondered if I should have bought a
Neckbeard instead of the MB Too, since I got the board so I could still surf
small waves with Bri.
I blew a couple of waves, slipping towards
the nose on the pop up. Still I got some fun single, turn rides. Bri left to go
lay out in the sand. A little later, Khang had to feed the meter again. As he
made his way back to the water, I caught a left that had an oncoming section. I
pumped and rebounded off of the shoulder. The wave was now on the shore, so it
jacked up, but I stuck the landing. I’m sure a pro would have been able to do
something sick with that ride, but I was happy to have ridden it out.
#
Well, so that session was a while ago. I’m
writing this now, trying to catch up on my blogs. That’s all I remember. It was
a good morning.
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