Loc: Manhattan
Beach
Crew: Khang
Conditions:
2-3 FT, offshore, scattered peaks, crowded.
Surfline had initially forecasted that
today would be poor to fair, but after yesterday’s surprise of good conditions,
they’ve upgraded today to “fair.” As expected, the swell has tapered down a
little, but it still looks fun.
Instead of paddling out at the brick house,
like yesterday, I go a little south of the tower to try the left. It’s less crowded,
and like clockwork, Oscar is here too.
Most of the waves are similar to yesterday’s,
just a little smaller, less consistent, one-to-two turners. I surf here for
about an hour, when I see Khang sitting in the main pack.
I paddle up to him, thinking that it’s too
crowded where he’s at. He says that where I was looked worse.
“My surfing’s been a little off,” I say. “I
feel off.” I look down at my board.
“Really, bro?” he says. “You look like you’re
in pretty good form to me.”
The surf here is a little more consistent.
Even with the crowd, we’re able to get a good handful of waves. As much as I
want to deny it, I’m still looking for that breakthrough wave. I need to get it
out of my head, but I can’t. My rides aren’t much to write about. Even sitting
here in front of my laptop, I can’t recall any standout rides.
Khang and I leave the beach at about the
same time. Back home, Bri’s still in bed. I ask her if she wants to go to Bob’s
Hawaiian in Gardena.
When we arrive there, I’m surprised that
there’s no band. Maybe it’s too early still? We both order loco mocos. Ahhhh,
Loco Moco, how much I’ve missed you.
It’s nice being back with the decent surf,
but something is still missing and making me feel a little empty. For the rest
of the day, I veg out completely: brownies and ice cream, Black Ops II on PS3,
dinner with my friends, and then back home for some PS3. I’m not sure if I’m
just adjusting to being back from Java, but it’s weird having free time in my
own space now. I haven’t watched the news, TV, or any surf events that usually
have me glued to the live feed. Something is off.
Hmmm something is off.... I just think you need to adjust to your everyday life again ... But it's different now... maybe??
ReplyDeleteI know for me.. I had a great 3 day weekend with my surf girls and it was a very liberating emotional weekend...even though surf not so much.. I came home Monday and I too felt off and I just wanted to be back at the camp...
You had a very long emotional trip.... You need to grasp what you just been through... I personally think it was pretty deep from what I read!!
It will take time to readjust... You have learn some new things about yourself ... You did not come back the same Donny Duckbutter.... But I think you came back and feel your the same and your not...you need to let go of some of what your use too and grasp what you learned..
Does this make sense?
maybe you need some KK time in the water. haha only kidding
ReplyDeleteit seems like you're pressuring yourself. it sounds like you're back to that mindset when you first started your trip to java, where you were pressuring yourself to "have fun" and pressuring yourself to "surf" but you're actually only paying attention to the pressure you place on yourself instead of the task at hand, which is, to have fun and surf.
try some meditation, even just for two minutes, and maybe you can clear your mind before surf. stay in the now, keep your mind open for the now, instead of your expectations, or what you perceive as others expectations.
Surfing G, a lot of what you said makes sense. I'm definitely not the same since I've been back, and I'd like to think that some of them are good. I'm just really focusing on my own surfing right now. Anyway, yes . . . that trip was exhausting physically, emotionally, and spiritually. I'm just thinking about how much I was writing when I was there, so much material. I do need to readjust.
ReplyDeleteKK, meditation. I don't do it for that long yet (two minutes), but I'm working on some of the breathing. Very interesting stuff. Staying in the now is a challenge, and I'm working on it.