Loc: 26th
Conditions:
2-3 FT+, sunny, consistent
Looking back, it’s hard to remember this
weekday session. All I remember is that I woke up early, super early. I dawn
patrolled it and got to the beach early enough to score a parking spot on 26th
Street right next to the park. I can’t even remember if the crowd was
even a factor this morning. I remember that some of the sets were walled but that
there were also some waves that had good shape. On that morning, Mike the Santa
Monica Cop, was the only person who I talked to. We talked small kine story
about Hawaii. He’s from Oahu, moved to NorCal for college, used to live in The
Bay, and now he’s here in L.A.
“Where do you live?” I asked.
“By Thousand Oaks,” he said. Fuck. It blows
my mind how far people live from this surf spot, and out of all the places to
go, they come here. And it’s not a bad thing. It just says something special
about this spot. 26th. As Klaude would say: Ohana.
Once the high school kids cleared out, the
lineup was pretty manageable, but for some reason, a lot of new faces surf here
now. There was a group of three guys, probably in their mid twenties. One of
them went right, and Mike dropped in on him.
The guy resurfaced, paddled back to his
friends, turned to Mike and said, “Really?”
Mike didn’t hear. It was an awkward moment.
Sometimes I feel bad when my friends snake people, like it’s the way the pack
works: your friend snaking someone says something about yourself. Well, Mike
didn’t do it on purpose. I felt bad, but what could I do?
I only remember one that morning. It was a
right. With the sun already up around nine o’clock, things go from orange to
looking more bright blue, even silver. The sky almost looked white when I
bottom turned and looked up to unleash my backhand snap, and for once it felt
smooth and fast, that feeling when you reenter the wave with your nose down
with speed. Fuck yeah. It was only one turn, but it was a while since I felt a
solid snap like that.
No comments:
Post a Comment