Loc: 26th
Conditions:
3-4 FT+, sunny, consistent, crowded
It’s another crowded morning full of high
schoolers. The surf has tapered off a little bit from yesterday, but there are
still come occasional four footers. I’ve brought my Mini Driver with me this
time and as expected, the waves aren’t that hollow for me to pull into. After
yesterday’s frustration, I enter the ocean, calm as a crocodile going for a
cruise without prey in mind. I paddle out just north of the tower and catch a
right hander. The wave dumps me off into the main peak with all of the
grommets. My earplugs turn my head into a padded room for my thoughts, barely
able to hear the commotion around me. My breathing is the loudest sound. I’m
patient, more patient than yesterday that’s for sure. I don’t need to add extra
stress into my life, being frustrated off of bad sessions.
The dawn patrol light is still a weak
orange, but the sand still looks as if it’s giving off a lantern glow. This
early morning light paints everything with a subtle orange: the waves, the
white wash, the white shoulder pads on my wetsuit.
In the midst of the groms, a perfect,
A-frame peak rolls my way, literally right to me. I barely have to move into
position. Even if I was out of position, I’d let the groms have it, since they
have to go to school soon anyway. But I turn and go left. Three kids pull out.
The wave isn’t fast, but instead it peels slowly. This is where I usually pump
fanatically, flail my arms, and try my hardest to pull off a carve to whip my
tail out. Instead, I’m nonchalant, dropping in with ease, bottom turning, and
placing my feet a little wide so I kiss the lip just for a little splash out
the back before dropping back in. I do some light pumps on the face as I end
with a final kiss.
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