Loc:
Manhattan Beach
Crew: Bri
Time:
1630-1730
Conditions:
light onshore, 1-3 FT, inconsistent, hot, sunny
Bri calls and tells me that the surf is
fun. She’s on her way home to grab her longboard. I’m still at work, but I’m
out early. All I can think about is getting in the water.
When I get home and grab my gear too, I
meet up with her.
The weather’s been hot and dry, our
apartment a death sauna, but the beach has been such a great escape, and the
small waves before us don’t even phase me.
I use Dais’s 6’8 NSP, and I have so much
fun on it. I pop up late, even stalling on the lefts, sticking my hand in the
face for better positioning. I never was a good longboarder, but I try to turn,
straightening out to shore and then back down the line again. I hop towards the
nose, crouching, not quite getting my toes over the nose, but it’s close.
We exchange waves, but then the wind turns
strong onshore, and the waves get inconsistent. I even switch to the 7’10 NSP,
and I do terrible on it. I lack mobility. It burns so much energy just to turn
that boat around to get in position. I don’t catch one wave on that thing.
Meanwhile, groms are showing up. On their little
shortboards, they make the waves look good. I’m still glad I caught a good hour
though, and I’m glad I was on the right board.
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