ALL GOOD THINGS…, SAT 28JUN2014

Loc: Rosecrans

Crew: Bri, Juan, Rick, Dave

Time: 0530-0745

Conditions: Overcast, light onshore, inconsistent, low tide, 2-3FT.

     Coming off of yesterday’s stoke, I had a feeling that today wouldn’t be as good. Juan is the first one in the lot when we pull in, followed by Dave and Rick. The goal is to be in the water no later than 0530. Rick decides to put some money in the money while I do not.

     There’s a northwest wind patting our faces, but down at the sand the conditions are still glassy. Also, they are smaller.

     The same Japanese dude that’s always out there first—surprise surprise—is out there again. Unlike yesterday, El Porto already has a small handful of surfers near 42^nd. The peaks are 2-3FT with shape better than Wednesday, but they just look dismal in comparison to yesterday.

     I’m still stoked, high stepping on my way out to shore, I have a feeling that the water is warm enough for my trunks and rashguard. When my feet touch the water, it is.     

     I draw first blood on an inside left, but after a tight cutback, it mooshes out and I lose the wave. The waves are fast this morning, especially upon hitting the inside, they stand up and race away. Some of them look a little tube-worthy, but I focus on pumping and trying to get distance.

     Yesterday Gary had said that he used to surf aggressively, but now he enjoys surfing with his friends and seeing them on good waves more. On this morning, I don’t get those long epic rides like yesterday, but I’m stoked for everybody else.

     I admire Rick and Juan for their paddling power. Juan’s on a standard short, and he still manages to paddle into the smallest waves, somehow riding them all the way to the inside when I think he’ll get caught behind. Rick too, but it’s no surprise to see him paddle hard, just when the wave is about to pass him, he gets that extra stroke to drop in.

     I get some okay waves, but Bri gets the most quality rides out of all of us. Even though today is smaller than yesterday, there are some freak sets at three-feet plus, some are walled and some have shape. One right in particular just stands up and shoulders off perfectly for rippable down-the-line shape. She looks late on the take off, but she pops up and takes it all the way in.

     At 0700, Juan is done. His back is starting to hurt, and he needs to save himself for his birthday session tomorrow at HB. “You should join us,” he says.

     Rick and Dave disappear into the crowd at 42^nd Street while Bri and I hold down a gap just south of Rosecrans.

     The wind turns onshore, making the water choppy. The racy but rippable waves are now replaced with crumbly peaks, knocked down early from the wind. It’s so inconsistent that I’m cold in my trunks from not catching anything.

     But other surfers are doing all right. When I look a couple spots away, guys are managing to crank out at least one turn. I guess sometimes you have those days. I had a good one yesterday, and I can’t always get good rides all the time.

     When we head up to the lot we find that Rick’s already gone. Dave is the last one back at the lot. Yet, people are just parking and suiting up. We caught a good window. At least at 0530 it was glassy. It’s nice to be done at 0800, and I hope that Juan’s birthday brings all of us some good waves in HB tomorrow. 

Bri's post-surf pancake special