JUAN’S BIRTHDAY, SUN 29JUN2014

Loc: Huntington Pier south

Crew: Bri, Juan, Rick, Dave, Gary, Manny

Time: 0600-0800

Conditions: Overcast, south wind, inconsistent, low tide, 2-3FT.

     One thing I like about Huntington Beach is its access. One can score a parking spot easy during dawn patrol. When Bri and I park on 6^th and Walnut, it’s still dark out. There are two drunken chicks talking on the front porch of their apartment building.

     We walk to the pier and catch a glimpse of Rick and Manny running across the sand towards the surf. It’s overcast, and the sky is a dull bluish gray. The wind is also onshore, blowing from the south.

     On the sand, Manny’s going left on his backhand, trying to pull in and get barreled, but the wind is knocking the peaks down.

     Immediately upon paddling out, I get a small right. At least the wave looked small, but it stands up so fast that it actually has a fast pumpy section to work with.

     There’s a heat between Rick and Manny, and Rick’s not doing so swell as far as the competition goes. Manny catches a lot of insiders, getting lots of one-turn wonders.

     The south current’s strong, and everyone’s paddling against it to try and hold position. Every wave surfed gets a score.

     Despite the onshore conditions, the surf turns consistent, sprouting solid three-foot plus peaks along the beach. Some are sectiony but some hold shape.

     I get a set wave left. Thank goodness I’m right on the shoulder or else I wouldn’t make it. The wave opens up but it’s about to section off into another section. I bottom turn and carve the open face before it closes out, putting as much arc and torque on the tail as I possibly can. It feels good. I ride out of it. Dave is on the inside with both fists clenched, cheering me on. I’ve never seen him so stoked for me before. He holds up five fingers and one finger on his other hand. On the outside, Gary’s holding up seven fingers.

     I’d like another wave like that one, but I can’t get one. I eat shit on a couple, taking off too late. Juan’s the finesse surfer of the morning, casually taking off on the peaks and making the sections for long rides. Bri’s going for bombs too. Gary takes off on a bomb left and wipes out. It’s a session that’s turned for the better with enough waves for everyone.

     But the window closes. A lull ensues after the wave fest, and now we’re all paddling around just to stay busy. “We’re about due up,” says Juan. Another set comes but barely anything afterwards.

     For breakfast, we head to a waffle place just a block away from where I had parked. It’s nice to hang out with the boys, and I’m happy to see the energy that Bri brings to the table. She’s pretty and she surfs, but I’m sure that the rest of the guys have to slightly filter their conversations because if Bri wasn’t here, they’d be having a perve fest.