COMBOS, FRI 24OCT2014

Loc: 26^th Street

Crew: Bri, Tom Y.

Time: 0645-0830

Conditions: 3-4FT , glassy, consistent, cool.

     Free parking on Friday is a bitch, but I only have to make a couple of rounds before scoring on the east side of Highland and Marine. Fuckin’ A. This takes so much pressure off of me. It’s 0630, still dark out, and I can take my sweet ass time. Not that I need it. It’s trunks and a wetsuit jacket today. Gotta take advantage of the warm water despite the fact that the air is much cooler in the morning now. According to my car thermometer, it was 62 degrees yesterday. This morning it reads 64. Feels much colder though.

     I cut through the million dollar homes and cross the strand just north of Marine. Dark blue hues turn lighter by the second over the horizon. Dots of surfers are already out there, mostly groms. Bri’s crossing the strand as I make my way past the tower. We paddle out in front of the brickhouse.

     Initially, the water feels cool, but within minutes I’m acclimated. If it was “all time” yesterday, it’s hard to tell right now. The swell has definitely backed off at least a foot. The tide hasn’t improved much either, for it’s still high in the morning. Brickhouse Break is swampy. Though some outsiders break, it’s still hard to get into them. The bigger waves wall up. It takes a while. As the orange blaze grows brighter over the hill, more surfers come out. It’s fucking crowded. Could be a weekend sesh, longboarders, SUPsters, shortboarders, vets, kids, new faces. Fuck. I catch a solid four-foot left but sink my board on the pop up and dig a rail. I’m on the Motorboat Too. The repair job on my Mini Driver from my repair guy didn’t hold. I get one backhand snap on a walled right. It’s sloppy. I’m suffering from a lack of waves and a lack of foam.

     Bri gets more waves than I do. Before I know it, she’s pulled her hour of surfing and needs to go. 0730 marks the time that I should start making my way towards the tower. The kiddies should be heading off to school, and the lineup should thin out.

     I spot Tom Y. just north of the tower. We catch up a little. Ohana vet Jon is out, too, confirming how good yesterday was. Don K. is right in front of the tower with the other grizzly vets. I’m glad there’s a gap separating us from them.

     After a few poorly ridden waves, I finally get a rippable left. I mean, it’s perfect for 26^th Street. Popping up, I see the open face build before me. I begin pumping and setting up for a frontside wrap around cutback. This board feels so loose on the rebound. I don’t rebound powerfully but I do it with ease. I pump again and set up for a layback carve. The first half of the maneuver feels good, but coming out of it, I stall and lose the wave, like I put too much weight on the tail. I can only assume that these mistakes happen when trying new things. I’ll get that balance and weight distribution down eventually. However, it feels so good to connect a different variety of turns on a wave. I’m almost there. I don’t have too many tricks in the bag, but it’s nice to be able to link up a combination of moves.

     Tom and I trade off. I make more mistakes here and there, but the surf itself is working. Even with the high tide, the good waves are lining up.

     I catch a racy right and end up in the pack of vets. I can’t catch shit around them, so I paddle back towards Tom. After the next wave, I look back at the lineup and call the session. I’m done. I’m actually cold, my muscles are sore, and I’m just plain tired. I’ve surfed every day this week.

     Khang’s pulling into the parking lot as I make my way up the hill. I give him the report and head to my car. On Highland Avenue, I see Shan’s 4 Runner. He looks at me with an expression that says, “You’re leaving?” I barely have enough time to return a glance that says, “Yeah, dude. Where were you?”

     It’s high tide anyway. Not a bad time to leave, even though there are more waves to be ridden.

     No cars arrive to wait on me while I change. I’m free to change in peace.