LINGERING, THU 23OCT2014

Loc: Rosecrans

Crew: Khang

Time: 0800-0930

Conditions: 4FT +, walled, glassy, sunny.

     The plan was to meet at 26^th Street at first light, but there’s no fucking parking there. Plus, we woke up late. So we’re parked at Rosecrans and Highland while we touchdown on the sand in front of Rosecrans. The swell was supposed to back off but it’s lingering, four-to-five feet, walled, and still pushing through the high tide. A few of the lines are tapered at the end, mostly rights, so we say “fuck it” and find a gap to sit at.

     I haven’t seen Khang in weeks. Once since his trip to Mexico and this is the first time since he had gone to Costa Rica.

     I ask how he’s been.

     “Still sick,” he says, “from the partying. I’m about at ninety percent now.”

     A right comes, and it actually has a racy open face. I get one little snaparoosky before it shuts down.

     Khang goes on some, too, but it’s touch and go, mostly closeouts.

     There are rights at 40^th Street, but it’s packed. North of the Rosecrans tower, the rights work a little better, but a lot of people are sitting there, even a few faces from 26^th that were forced to surf here, too.

     I get another right but go over the nose after the turn.

     Khang has to leave for work. As we say our goodbyes, I get a left all the way to shore. I try to end my wave with a layback snap on the oncoming section, but I don’t stick it.

     After Khang leaves, I don’t catch shit. The surf changes. More people are sitting around me. I catch a closeout and call it a morning.

     Later that day, I get a call from Klaude saying that where he surfed was all time today. I’m so jealous, but I’m happy for him, too. I think I’ll be surfing there tomorrow.