CASSADY CALLED, SAT 15NOV2014

Loc: El Porto, 42^nd Street

Time: 1600-1730

Crew: Cassady

Conditions: 5 FT+, victory at sea.

     Cassady calls while I’m prepping my Lost Mini Driver for repairs. I’m bummed about this morning’s skunk and even more bummed about my board. I had just gotten it fixed, now this.

     “I’ve been here all day,” he says. “A couple guys are out. It was walled earlier, but it’s getting better with the higher tide.”

     I’m on the fence, telling him that I’m pretty much done for the day, but I also remind myself that he’s rarely in the South Bay to surf.

#

     Cassady’s sitting sideways along his closed tailgate, underneath the cover of his camper shell. Looks like he’s rowing a boat without a paddle. With shades on, he’s chillin’ like a true beach bum. Guy looks like he’s been there all day. As a matter of fact he has.

     He shows me his new Pyzel. It’s beefy. He’s rather hunky himself, with his stocky man chest. They match.

     Meanwhile, the surf looks fucking unruly. No doubt, there are waves. Shape? Nah. Not really. The inside is chaos. Roaring whitewash. The paddle out looks a little far, too. Yet, people are paddling out.

     “Some of the inside ones are fun,” says Cas.

     Doesn’t matter. We’re here. We’re going.

     We’re two deaf motherfuckers having a conversation, unable to hear each other talk about how well our earplugs work. Oh the irony.

     It’s a little work to get to the lineup, but we make it. First we sit outside, waiting for a wave that isn’t walled. Something with good shape. On my rockerless Motorboat Too, I turn and go on a right, purling upon take off. Woof . . . embarrassing. That was bad.

     Cassady take a right. Fuckin’ guy. It’s a good one. A bucket gets thrown out the back. The wave is marbled foam, but he’s going all the way to the inside.

     Some other guys, too. They’re doing well. There are a few gems here and there.

     Cas sits more inside, and now I see what he’s talking about. We get beaten up on the sets a little, but the inside ones are breaking better. I redeem myself on a small ass right, getting two sharp backhand snaps. Feels good. Been a while since I’ve gotten turns on this little board. But still, I need more volume. There’s so much water moving around on the bigger waves that my board feels unstable. Wrong equipment.

     Cas continues his campaign, getting long rides, ruling the evening, mastering my local break.