Monday, November 24, 2014

CAN’T REMEMBER SHIT, FRI 14NOV2014


Loc: Manhattan Beach
Time: 0700-0900
Conditions: 3-4 FT, walled, sectiony.
     Can’t remember shit from this session. . . All I remember is that I had surfed Veterans Day on the 11th. Took a lay day on the 12th because the surf looked onshore from the cams. On the 13th, my pussy hurt because I had felt a cold coming on, and I wanted to save myself for Friday when the swell was going to pick up.
     The plan had been to surf HB with my buddy Cassady, but he, ironically, was going to surf the South Bay that morning because he got invited to a party. Because I had spent all day catching up with my blogs the day before, I didn’t feel like being a hermit on Friday. I wanted to surf with familiar faces and actually “socialize.” Plus, the drive didn’t feel too appealing either.
     Cas was supposed to meet me at Manhattan Beach. I texted him twice, but he didn’t reply. WHC Text thread showed those guys paddling out at Rosecrans where there was a little more size.
     From where I parked on the street, the surf looked walled with some occasional five-footers, so I opted for the SA-2 large quad-fin setup. Now this is where shit gets blurry.
     In researching my old Vox and texts messages, I was complaining about shape. The surf was sectiony and walled. I complained about using the wrong fin setup because the surf wasn’t big enough for the large fins, and my turning was straight crap.

     Anyway, on another note, it’s funny when you can’t remember those surf sessions from ten days back. I mean, even if the sesh wasn’t memorable, I did paddle out that morning, I’m sure I caught some waves, even though they may have been shitty ones, and still, I can’t remember even one. 

2 comments: