VETERANS DAY SESH, TUE 11NOV2014

Loc: Manhattan Beach

Crew: Bri, Klaude

Time: 0700-0900

Conditions: 2-4 FT, overcast, cool, glassy, crowded.

     The lineup was empty this time yesterday, but right now there’s nowhere to park. Luckily, my second option for parking has one space open. Score. Since I made a poor choice yesterday of only taking one board, I walk to the beach with my fish and shortboard in tow.

     SUP guys paddle in front of the lifeguard tower like sharks in a mating frenzy. 33^rd has a crowd and so does the brick house, which is just north of the tower. Bri and I shoot for a small gap in between the SUP’ers and the edge of the crowd.

     It’s a cool overcast morning that drapes a dull metallic gray over the ocean. Peaks are coming through in long lines with corners at the end of them. They’re almost invisible from the glassiness, so timing is kind of a bitch because you can’t really see the wave until the face stands up and begins to bend.

     Seems that everyone is off of work today. New faces mix in with old faces. Roy paddles up to me and wishes me a Happy Veterans Day. I say thanks and tell him about my frustrating sesh at Lowers.

     “Did you surf yesterday?” I ask.

     “I was at Porto,” he says. “Shapes been good over there. A little bigger, too.”

     Ross and Mitch are out, and so is Longboard Robert.

     “Where’s [Stocky] Jon?” I say.

     Rob doesn’t know. A set wave comes through and clobbers him in the impact zone. Even though the surf doesn’t look big, it’s doing the same thing that it did yesterday. The surf is standing up better around mid tide, improving throughout the morning.

     I get one snap on a right before the wave runs away from me. I’m sloppy. I catch a left all the way to the inside, pulling off a cutback. Still awkward. Ahh! Maybe I still have some Churches and Trestles residue leftover. Even though the surf was small over the weekend, the shape was impeccable. Or maybe I just suck.

     Bri’s doing well on her NSP. Every time I spot her, she’s either just getting off of a wave, on the inside paddling back, or paddling into one.

     As much as I’d like to think I’m a standout at this spot, I know I’m not. Why? Because Davey and Roy are trading off on waves at the left just south of the tower. While I struggle to finish off my waves with legit maneuvers, they make every wave they catch look good regardless of quality. Over and over again, smooth with balance in check, they get down the line, cutback, set themselves up high on the line, and pump down for maneuvers two and three.

     Toru paddles out.

     “You off today?” I say.

     “Yeah. Now I can actually stay longer.”

     Klaude paddles out, too. We talk about the Lakers. First win! He has a hat, a free giveaway at the game, waiting in his car for me. He goes right, and some longboarder, who fucking sees him, still bags him anyway. I watch Klaude trail him all the way to the inside. He shakes his head on the way back.

     But it’s Veterans Day, a holiday. Of course it’s packed. I had also gotten bagged earlier by another fucking longboarder, too.

     The waves are a little racy, and the crowds aren’t helping much either. I practice pulling in and actually get some drive distance in the tube. I’m feeling much more comfortable doing this, and getting that little distance also feels rewarding, like I could have a whole session with just these closeout barrels and still have a good time.

     Taking off deep on some lefts, I draw high lines. For the waves that don’t throw out, I’m surprised to make it all the way to the open faces. Some groms on the shoulder paddle in and kick out, still ruining the shape.

     My wave of the day is a bomb right. I know it’s gonna closeout, but today’s size isn’t harrowing, so I paddle into it, dropping straight down. By the time I bottom turn and grab rail, the lip starts throwing out over me. I stall, arm in the wave, and get a quick barrel perspective. The wave fully engulfs me, turning my world black, white, and then light blue.

     I hear “Whooooohoooo!” from the lineup. A couple more follow. I look back. Roy is on the inside, grinning at me. I shoot him a peace sign and paddle back to the lineup.

     “Nice drop,” says Mitch.

     I explain that it’s just a closeout. Sometimes you gotta go on those for fun, but it had unexpectedly opened up better than expected.

     My turns suffer the whole session. I get a couple more lackluster rides and get out. I’ve been wondering about my board quiver lately.

     Bri and I take our time changing at the car. Klaude pulls up and gives me the Laker hat. He doesn’t have the day off. Life’s not easy as an accountant.

     We head to Denny’s for breakfast. Veterans get a free Grand Slam Breakfast.

     “I need to ride something shorter,” says Bri. “I can’t do the turns that I want on my NSP.”

     I squish my cheeks up with my palms as I rest my elbows on the table. She says I look old. In the past, I would’ve rode Bri hard about which board she should ride.

     “As long as you’re having fun,” I say.