Loc:
Manhattan Beach
Time:
0700-0900
Conditions:
3-4 FT, walled, sectiony.
Can’t remember shit from this session. . .
All I remember is that I had surfed Veterans Day on the 11th. Took a
lay day on the 12th because the surf looked onshore from the cams.
On the 13th, my pussy hurt because I had felt a cold coming on, and
I wanted to save myself for Friday when the swell was going to pick up.
The plan had been to surf HB with my buddy
Cassady, but he, ironically, was going to surf the South Bay that morning
because he got invited to a party. Because I had spent all day catching up with
my blogs the day before, I didn’t feel like being a hermit on Friday. I wanted to
surf with familiar faces and actually “socialize.” Plus, the drive didn’t feel
too appealing either.
Cas was supposed to meet me at Manhattan
Beach. I texted him twice, but he didn’t reply. WHC Text thread showed those
guys paddling out at Rosecrans where there was a little more size.
From where I parked on the street, the surf
looked walled with some occasional five-footers, so I opted for the SA-2 large
quad-fin setup. Now this is where shit gets blurry.
In researching my old Vox and texts
messages, I was complaining about shape. The surf was sectiony and walled. I
complained about using the wrong fin setup because the surf wasn’t big enough
for the large fins, and my turning was straight crap.
Anyway, on another note, it’s funny when
you can’t remember those surf sessions from ten days back. I mean, even if the
sesh wasn’t memorable, I did paddle out that morning, I’m sure I caught some
waves, even though they may have been shitty ones, and still, I can’t remember
even one.
yup, they get all blurred. I have a few similar posts lol
ReplyDeleteTell me about it, Stud.
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