RICK’S BIRTHDAY WEEKEND PT.II (double), FRI 07NOV2014

Dirt Dan, Nasty Nate, Juan, Bri, and I, standing by for the evening call.

Loc: Churches

Crew: Bri, Rick

Time: 1545-1715

Conditions: 1-3 FT, glassy, sunny, cool, consistent.

“Zippi Time”

     When Bri arrives after work, she brings the rest of our camping gear. Most importantly, she's brought the Zippifish, which I’ll need for the small surf forecast.

     Having missed the first session, Bri paddles out right away while the rest of us head to the store for supplies. Dinner’s gonna be gourmet chili dogs by Chef Gary. I pick up Negro Modelos and tomorrow’s lunch, Spam Loco Mocos.

     I’m itching to paddle out and join Bri for the evening sesh. The tide’s pushed so far out that all the cobblestones are exposed. Conditions are still glassy, and the peaks are coming in small but consistent.

     Rick and I get our gear ready, but I head out ahead of them. Juan opts out of the second session but preps his camera and tripod.

     Walking towards North Churches, I spot Daniel doing some tide-pool recon. He hollers out at me, “You should wear shoes!” I know what he’s talking about. I’ve received my share of cobblestone cuts in the past. No matter how much you think you’ve mastered walking over the rocks here, there’s always the possibility of taking that one misstep and then SLICE. You’re out for about a week.

     Bri’s sitting wide north of three people. A shortboarder paddles out just ahead of me. Even though the water’s cold, I still opt for shorts and a wetsuit jacket. Better to keep my wetsuit dry for tomorrow morning.

     As fun as the RV was for the first session, nothing I ride catches waves easier than the Zippi. It’s just so thick all the way up to the nose. The nose just slides down and gets into waves no problem. Peaks are coming in small, but with the low tide, they are so easy to paddle into. It’s like a repeat of the first session, but instead of trying to get turns, I focus more on distance. The waves are lining up much longer from the tide, and the shape is even peakier.

Photo by Juan A. Camera zoomed with San Onofre in the distance. 

     Juan’s on the cobble stones at the edge of the water, snapping pics. We all score with the sunset in the background. Bri leaves first since she’s been out the longest. Rick follows suit, and then I walk back with Juan.

Juan snapped this iPhone pic as I was getting out, looking back, stoked on small surf.

     Back at the campsite, Gary’s got the chili dogs going, and there’s something about camping that just makes everything taste delicious. We could’ve eaten Cup Noodles for dinner, and I would’ve been happy.

     Now we’re sitting around the campfire with a full moon above us. It’s so bright that we can still see the surf in front of our camp site.

     The call is DMJs tomorrow. Even though I know I should get to bed early, it’s hard to fathom it. Completely beached with a beer in my hand, hot flames warming my face, I look at my watch. It’s barely six thirty.