LOCAL SATURDAYS, SAT 20DEC2014

Loc: Manhattan Beach

Time: 0700-0900

Conditions: 4 FT, high tide, walled, offshore, mooshy.

Board: 5’9 Motorboat Too

     Bri decides to surf this morning. She says that she hasn’t been surfing so much because it’s been big and also because I, her lifeline, haven’t been here. I’m stoked to dawn patrol it early on a Saturday when I’ll get to see all the locals.

     Walking past the metered lot, I already spot Orlando and his long Rastafarian hair as he’s bullshitting with some guys parked next to him.

     With this high-tide funk in the mornings, it’s another swampy situation today. The waves look weak and soft. Pretty lame. But for waves to still break through this tide says a lot for the swell energy. The sets come in lined up and walled but mooshy. The Marine Tower has the best shape, but it’s dominated by a bunch of Standup Paddlers.

     Bri and I choose a spot away from the crowd, just south of everyone. Right when we get to the lineup, I get a left. Paddling into waves on this board feels different with its short length and low rocker, but it turns much tighter. I bottom turn into a tight wrap-around cutback, but the wave fizzles out shortly after.

     Out back, Bri takes the second wave. She’s caught a little bit behind the section, and she decides to straighten out and dismount. She could have maybe held her line and made it to the open face, but I’m working on not being a dick so much. The old me would have said something, but . . . why push it? I just want her to have fun and not feel judged.

     The rest of my waves are too soft, and after each wave, Bri is on the one behind it. Her NSP funboard is the perfect surf craft for days like these. She even catches waves all the way inside, covering more distance in one wave than all my waves combined.

     Orlando spots us. He paddles over and asks how Japan was. I fill him in. He invites Bri and me to the 26^th Street Ohana camping trip in April. Of course, we accept.

     I also talk to Stocky Jon, Gene, and Jose.

     Pretty soon, the tide begins to shut everything down. Ironically, more surfers crowd our spot even though the surf is getting worse.

     Walking back to the car, Vietnam Mike stops us at the stairs with a metal container in hand. “You gotta try these,” he says. Inside are chocolate chip cookies. They’re really good. Bri’s stoked, too. What a way to end a session. It’s great being a local.