LOSING PRIORITY, SUN 21DEC2014

Loc: Manhattan Beach (33^rd Street)

Time: 0700-0900

Conditions: 4-5 FT, high tide, walled, offshore, inconsistent.

Board: 6’0 Lost Mini Driver

     With the NWN swell peaking today, Bri opts to sleep in. “The forecast says it’s big,” she says. I tell her that the high tide should make it manageable, but at the same time I don’t want her to get hurt, too. If she’s worried about the size, who am I to push her?

     The plan had been to surf 33^rd at first light. Of course, I’m late once more. I get a series of texts from Gary and Rick. Gary’s already parked and watching 33^rd. Rick says he’s going to paddle out at Rosecrans. When I reach Rosecrans, I catch Dave T walking out of the bathroom.

     “Where’s Rick?” I say.

     He points out front. They’re paddling out at Rosecrans. I tell him that I’m meeting Gary by 33^rd and that I’ll link up with them later. But when I reach 33^rd, only one guy is out. After paddling out, the current takes me south to the edge of the brick house. I’m almost at 26^th Street, where I would’ve paddled out solo.

     I had told Klaude that I’d be at 33^rd, so I hope he won’t go there for nothing. No Gary, no Russ, but I realize that it’s my fault. Wherever those guys are, I’m late. First light is when the “horn goes off,” and I missed the start of the heat. After that, there’s no guarantee where anyone will be. Once you miss it, anything goes. They could be at Rosecrans with Rick or maybe in the pack at 26^th.

     From the brick house on south, a lot of heads are in the water. I avoid mixing in with them and hold my position north at 30^th Street. Don K paddles over to escape the crowd as well.

     It takes a while to catch anything, and I blow my first right, eating shit from the bumpy high-tide take off. After a while I catch a three-turn right, but the ride sells the spot. People start paddling over and crowding me.

     My next two waves are left-hand closeout barrels. I get pinched on the first just behind the shoulder. Reflecting on it, I need to start muscling my way out of those. The second is just a big closeout, but it feels good bottom turning and pumping up right underneath the curtain, just setting myself up for the slot. I get swallowed up by the lip, but it’s nothing serious, and it’s worth the womping.

     Back at Rosecrans, Russ is at the top of the stairs. He looks down and says, “Where were you hiding?”

     I tell him my debacle, how I went to 33^rd late and missed everyone. “Where’s your dad?” I say.

     He points to him at Rosecrans. Gary, Dave T, and Rick are still out there.

     I tell him to say hi to his dad for me, go back to the car, and change. Back home, I tell Bri that the surf was manageable and that I had seen some longboarders out there. She’s already started her day writing, so maybe it’s good that she’s skipped today.   

     Then the texts start coming in. Sounds like all the guys had fun at Rosecrans. I should have been there. From now on, I need to start showing up on time.