Loc:
El Porto, 40th Street
Time:
0945-1115
Conditions:
2-4 FT, light onshore, cool
Board:
6’0 Lost Mini Driver, Thruster
I had to miss the dawn patrol because the
landlord barged into my apartment this morning with inspectors. Looks like they’ll
be putting in sound proof windows this year. So these grimy guys were walking
through my apartment while I sat there in my house shorts with fucked up
bedhead.
Even though I don’t like to surf Porto as
often as I used to, I still think it’s a good spot to go when the lot empties
out a little, in this case on the second shift.
Dais texts me and says that he’s there, but
I score free parking at one of my reliable spots and meet him in the water.
I had been gone for the weekend, and this
is the first time I see what the surf has on offer. Consistent lines are
rolling in, a little walled but with a few corners here and there. From what I
can see, 45th has the best peak right now. The sandbars have
shifted. It’s taken a while. For a minute there, the sandwich shack and
bathrooms had the best peaks.
Coming in at second place is 40th
Street Tower, and obviously these two peaks are where everyone is sitting.
The ocean feels like icewater, but I got my
bone-dry 4/3, so I’m prepared. Other than some minor seal leaks, I’m doing all
right.
It’s a long paddle out to the lineup, but
the current isn’t pulling me much at all. The battle’s happening directly in
front of the tower. Not a perfect A-frame, but a fast peak, with both lefts and
rights, is breaking. One guy gets snaked and another guys drops in on the
snake. Typical. Again, it’s why I don’t like surfing here, but at least the
crowd is more manageable right now.
I’m loyal to the gap in the lineup, always
surfing where it’s emptier, but I’m kind of paying for my decision. Shape here
is farfetched. I paddle into three closeouts by the time Dais makes it out.
I ask if he’s working next Tuesday because
that’s the biggest day in the forecast, and I’d like to hit the road and go to
Trestles. Unfortunately, he’ll be working, but we discuss the possibilities of
surfing HB on Wednesday.
When I finally get my nug, it’s a right
that I’m pretty deep and late for. Somehow, I pop up with good timing, avoid
purling, and wind up for a backhand snap, but the wave bogs out on the reentry.
I’ve always said that sometimes all you need to have a good session is one good
wave. It hardly counts, but I did get a clean turn on it.
The current picks up a little, and we find
ourselves either getting sucked out or dragged north, so we’re doing some
paddling.
I’m too far inside when a wave stands up. A
guy in a blue and neon-green wetsuit paddles into a wave. He resurfaces after
it explodes and says, “Awww shit. What a waste. Fuckin’ blew that one, brah.
Purled it.”
“At least you went,” I say. I paddle into
position for the next wave, but Blue turns around and tries to go for that one,
too. I back out for him, and then he backs out. Now that was a waste.
But there’s still the third wave of the
set, and it looks like it has shape. I’m in perfect position. Blue hoots me
into it as I kick and paddle. When I pop up, I see the face standing up before
me. I pull in and draw a line. Crouching, the lip swirls over me. A little man
is sitting way off on the shoulder, looking at me in the tube. All of a sudden,
the green room just races away from me. Awkward wipe out.
It takes a little duckdiving to get back
out. Blue nods at me. Dais, who’s on the inside, holds up his hand, makes a
circle with his fingers, and looks through it.
I want another one like it so badly, but I
don’t get it. I drift towards 45th where it’s just too packed for me
to get into a groove.
Changing back at the car, I think about
that “almost barrel.” I was in there. I’m getting more waves like that, when I’m
setting myself up well, but Porto requires more work. I gotta work in the tube,
pump, more than just hold a line in hopes to get out. As they say, progress not
perfection.
Driving home, listening to Barrington Levy’s
reggae music, I’m stoked that I got something to take home with me.
indeed, progress, not perfection. we keep pulling into these barrel close outs and we will start making a habit out of it. then, eventually, that one will open up and the rest will be history. then we can perfect our barrel technique at teahupoo finally
ReplyDeleteShit. If I can get a legit in and out at 26th, I'll be so stoked, like I'll pretty much have reached my goal at my local spot. Hopefully this year. In and out. We'll see.
ReplyDelete