WINTER CAMPOUT PT.1 (double), FRI 26DEC2014

Small and gorgeous



 

Loc: Middle Trestles

Time: 0730-1030

Conditions: 2-3 FT+, offshore, cold, semi consistent.

Board: 6’0 Zippifish

     Bri had wanted to get a cottage at San Onofre, but all of them were booked for the post-Christmas weekend. With my birthday coming up, I thought it would be fitting to check for beachside tent camping as well. Sure as shit, there was availability.

     With the surf forecast looking small, yet “fair,” I thought it would be a good idea to pull the trigger, especially with an oncoming flat spell on the horizon. I reserve the site and extend an open invite to the homies without expectations for waves or company.

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     The forecast downgraded to a foot less in size. Sunday got downgraded from “fair” to “poor to fair.” Yet, I’m still positive about the whole trip. Out of the most important things on the checklist is our space heater, since SoCal has been hitting record-breaking lows.

     Upon reaching Churches, we see that the surf is small. I haven’t surfed here in a while, and sometimes three-to-four feet Trestles can still mean longboard conditions.

     Regardless, there are still lines coming in. Small peaks peel with nice right-hand shoulders. A large pack of longboarders are in the water, an indication that this place must’ve been going off the past week with the swell that’s now outgoing. A set rolls in at a solid three feet, shortboardable.

     With a pristine winter morning before us and not one cloud in the sky, Bri and I don’t hesitate to change and bask in the early morning sun with the rest of the sniveling jackals.

     The Zippifish should be more than enough board. Even though the surf is more consistent at South Churches, we opt for our favorite spot at the northern edge. Apparently, it’s a lot of surfers’ favorite spot because there’s a pack here as well.

     We sit wider than everyone else, on the fringes of Middle Trestles, and wait for waves to swing our way.

     It’s smaller here and more inconsistent. Two shortboarders share the peak with us. Within fifteen minutes they call it and leave. Now that we’re in prime position and faced with a dropping tide, better peaks start sprouting up. The rights are a little racy, but as usual, I pick off the lefts and wait for each one with motherly patience. My wave/left of the day stands up at four feet. I can already tell that it’s a classic cobble-stone wave with the way the shoulder lines up. Upon popping up, the volume and drive from the fish and its twin fins send me flying down the line. I top turn into a tight wrap, rebounding off the spilling lip. It feels good to get a performance turn on such a big board. I pump down the line and finish with a second turn, well eclipsed by the first one.

     Though as the session progresses, the surf here remains inconsistent. Meanwhile, another pack of surfers are selling Middles. Unridden peaks break and peel in the distance. Bri and I debate and finally begin our paddle towards Middles.

     Usually Middles is empty, but like South Churches, there is a pack sitting at the main peak here. Once again, it must have been good here lately. I haven’t seen Middles work in a while, but bigger and more consistent waves are coming. The waves are lining up so well that guys at the top are getting long ass rides all the way past Bri and I, who are sitting well wide to the south. A guy on a fish keeps taking wave after wave. Luckily, some peaks line up a little too walled and outrace most of the surfers on our inside, so Bri and I paddle in and still get some long quality rides. On my backhand, I crank out three backhand snaps, surfing the wave from top to bottom. Feels good to get some spray on this thing, especially since I usually end up going left on it.

     We could stay a little longer, but we’ve been out for a while. We’d like to see if we can do an early check in and grab something to eat.

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WINTER CAMPOUT PT.2

Loc: Churches

Time: 1545-1645

Conditions: 2 FT+, light onshore, cold, consistent, low tide.

Board: 6’0 Zippifish

     The office doesn’t let us check in until 1300, so we go to Duke’s in San Clemente for brunch. Afterwards, we do some light shopping for camping supplies and check in. After setting up camp, Hideki’s the first of our guests to arrive. After him, Orlando and his Wife Jenny show up in the Volkswagen surf van. Lastly, J and Hayana arrive, my friends who I haven’t seen since we had camped together here over two years ago.

"I didn't come here not to surf."--Hideki

Orlando with his new van accessory.

     With the sun getting low and the air temp dropping, Bri, Hideki, and I suit up for the last session of the day. The tide’s so low that all the cobblestones are exposed. Barely anyone’s out, and the swell has already dropped a foot from this morning.

     I have a hard time getting into waves. Hideki, on his Channel Islands Average Joe, does too. However, Bri’s NSP surf craft is working perfectly, getting all the little waves and taking them all the way in to the rocks. Given the solid epoxy material that she’s riding, hitting the rocks isn’t a problem. I manage a few decent rides, but no turns like this morning. All I can do is draw a line, maybe pump, and get some distance before being forced to dismount from the shallowness.

     I’m pretty bummed that the surf has dropped this fast. With my party having missed the morning session, I worry that there won’t be any waves for tomorrow.

     Back at camp, Orlando’s already hitting it off with the neighbors in the next site over, drinking with them in his van and blasting some Bob Marley. The bonfire’s already started, and Jenny says that she’ll have some turkey burgers for everyone. I guess this is gonna be one of those trips where the company that you’re in outweighs the surfing conditions. So few were able to make it out, but I’m stoked to be here with the ones who did.