TRYING (double), THU 16APR015

 

Loc: El Porto, 45th                                  

Conditions: 1-3 FT, light onshore, soft, inconsistent.   

Board: Zippifish

     Looking back on this day, I can only remember how desperate I was for surf. After having used my new stick the days prior, I came to the conclusion that I shouldn’t force sessions on small days with the wrong equipment. That Thursday, I waxed up my trusty Zippifish and hoped to be king of the one footers.

     Lame enough, I don’t remember much of that first session, just the lack of quality rides. Stubbornly, I waited for two hours for waves. I caught some but not much. Nothing to take home to be stoked about.

     I had brought my running gear in case I chose to jog on the sand, but at the end of the session I just wanted out of there.

     After going home and doing some errands, I found myself back at 45^th Street. It was a sunny day with just light onshore wind. The red flag warning was up, which meant offshores for most of the morning into the early afternoon. When I arrived at Porto, the wind had just started to change.

     Again. No memorable rides. Usually, on this board, I can get so many waves.

     After a depressing session, I threw on a pair of shorts and ran on the sand from 45^th Street to Marine. The tide was low, so I mixed up my run from the soft sand up top to the hard packed sand at the tide line. I was in denial. There had to be waves somewhere, but during my run I only spotted a few weak crumbly corners. Yet, there I was extending my afternoon, not wanting to go home. It was that unfulfilled feeling from being low on stoke. As if the surf would have just randomly turned on, and I would’ve ran back to the car, grabbed my board, and paddled back out.