OUTGOING SWELLS, WED 06MAY2015

Loc: El Porto, 45th

Time: 0910-1010                  

Conditions: 4-5 FT, onshore, choppy, racy

Board: 5’10 Mini Driver, Quad Setup

     I had come here yesterday evening to check out the surf. It was small and onshore with a few sandbars offering some all right shoulders, so this morning I expected the surf to be decent with good wind and a little less energy. Too bad I sleep in and miss that window of glassy conditions.

     Walking down 45^th Street, I feel the onshore wind on my face. It’s not strong enough to blow shit out, but it won’t take much for that to happen.

     The Porto lot’s only half full, and the lack of life in the lineup reflects it, but despite the light chop on the water, there are some fast shoulders out there.

     It takes a while for me to make it out. Just that weekend of not surfing really brought down my conditioning. I pass on a couple long sectiony walls and then say fuck it and paddle into a rogue left. When I pull in, I get gobbled up and obliterated.

     The current’s pulling hard north. Before I know it, I’m in front of the rocks. It’s a paddle party, and everyone’s invited.

     Even though the shape’s not great, it still is a little playful out here. I get to the open face on a couple of lefts but fail to capitalize with a solid finishing carve.

     The rights look a little too dredgy, like I’ll get chucked off the lip. After watching a few go, I finally turn and go on a beefy one. Down the line, I can see that it’s already going to section out. However, I have a beautiful open face to work with before it does. Dropping down with speed, I bottom turn and crank off a solid bucket thrower and ride out into the flats. Fuckin’ A. Wave of the day right there.

     With the onshore wind picking up and more people leaving the lineup, I turn my board around and paddle back out, knowing that I’ll end up catching a closeout and cashing in my session after having caught that one good right.