Fri., Oct. 11th, 2019: Red Flag Sessions #2

Loc: 45^th St., El Porto

Time: 1100-1200

Conditions: offshore, 1-2 Ft., ankle slappers,

Board: Zippifish

Same place but just a little bit later than yesterday. The conditions were even better. Zero wind, it felt like. The ocean was glassy and calm as a lake, but…the surf definitely tapered off big time. There weren’t even a ton of surfers out, it was so small. Mostly longboarders, foamies, and just any small wave equipment possible. Me, I had the Zippi. It’s my go to board when it’s tiny, and I can still turn it. Those glassed-on twin fins get me down the line with speed when it’s small and slopey, but I really, truly was NOT expecting much.

First wave I caught was an inside runner. After that, for the next 20 minutes, I struggled. Most of the waves I tried to get into just got obliterated by my paddling and kicking alone. I kept scratching out over and over again; it was tough. Then…the tide dropped just a hair more, and the sandbars were now sprouting up these little two-foot peaks with these racy corners on them. I can’t say I got legit turns, but I was flying down the line, making sections, pulling off floaters at the end. It was super fun just to get the distance. I was running circles around people in my vicinity: two Euros who had GoPros filming each other, the longboard guy who paddled out and sat right on top of me, the noob chick in a full suit even though it was hot.

After my good rides I, I found people with their heads turned towards me as I paddled back. I couldn’t believe it. There was just enough surf to still milk some legit stoke, and I did it on a 5’6 Zippifish, tiny compared to all the foam everyone else had.

I unexpectedly ended the session after a wave in. My inner voice just said, “You had enough. Time to go.” So, I did. I had enough time to eat, make my dinner for work, and take my time preparing my uniform for the salt mines. In fact, I still left a few minutes early.

After that session I felt like a thief. I shouldn’t have gotten all those waves so easily, but my timing was right and so was my surf craft. Right place, right time. I guess that comes with experience. No, I can’t get airs, probably never will. I don’t get consistently barreled. I don’t paddle out when it’s double overhead. But…I know how to catch waves. I know how to milk them. I know how to make crappy and lackluster surf look good. That to me is an accomplishment.