Sat., Oct. 12th, 2019: Just to Get Wet

Loc: Rosecrans Ave., Manhattan Beach
Time: 1330-1415

Conditions: onshore, crumbly, low tide, blown out, 1 ft.

Board: Catch Surf Skipper

            I thought that the red flag conditions would go on for a third day straight, providing awesome offshore conditions for at least another day, so it made sense to wait for the tide to drop off in hopes to help the tiny surf. Afterall, we’d have all day to pick and choose the best window, despite the lack of swell. Well…I was wrong.

            Bri already had the day dedicated to her school project. Meanwhile, I was trying to make the best out of a crap surf forecast. I had it figured out. Just wait for the tide, Bri would eventually need a break, and we’d paddle out into some nice, offshore one-to-two footers.

            Unfortunately, by the time we chose our window, the wind was already strong onshore. When we pulled into the El Porto parking lot, it was still packed, but we were witness to crappy onshore conditions. No shape whatsoever. Just these crumbly lines breaking close to shore. Other than that, it looked like an awesome beach day.

            I’ve been consistent lately, changing my mantra from “would rather hit the gym if it’s small” to “every day is worth paddling out.” So, regardless, Bri and I had been stuck in the house all day anyway, so why not at least get wet?

            No wetsuit required. She grabbed her big blue pill AKA Blues Clues and I my Skipper. After being stuck in line for parking, once the lead vehicle parked, we were all finally set free to park at the end, which had been wide open the whole time. Go figure.

            We paddled out right in front. The water was cold, and the wind wasn’t helping, but it was nice just to throw on some shorts. It was a hassle-free session. I was paddling into little waves in thigh deep water. I managed to get a lot of them, trying to see if I could get down the line, but there was literally no shape to do that on. I think best wave I got was just a couple pumps past some closeout sections, but even that was a far cry. However, we still had fun. It was, indeed, good to get wet.

When you think about it, we are lucky. I mean, how many people get the opportunity to be close enough to the beach just to dunk their heads in? Sure, some people live within walking distance, but we don’t even need to be that close. We’re grateful. That’s all I can say, and I continue to be every single day I get to paddle out.

A little kid paddled out next to us in a full suit on an NSP. It was funny because we had the whole place to ourselves, and he paddled out next to us because we must’ve been making it look a little fun just goofing off, and, also, we looked…safe.

Bri and the kid struck a small conversation. I stayed off to the side and just did my thing. Bri told me the kid said something about the surf being too small. He reminded me of my nephew Jaya, probably like nine years old or somewhere around there. Cute kid.

And then Bri and I left. It was good. We both got the break we needed, and even after grabbing some groceries and going straight home again, just to touch nature at least once that day made us feel like we had been somewhere and did something.