Time: 0800-0900
Conditions: glassy, 2 Ft.
Board: Zippifish
Don’t
always put full stock into Surfline. In fact, I had my eye on both Surfline and
Magic Seaweed, and all I could tell is that one of them was lying to me. In any
event, Surfline definitely forecasted the surf to be so lackluster that only a
fool would even bother doing a surf check. Well, lucky for me, I am a fool.
I
scored free parking where I normally do and trudged my way down to 45th.
I wasn’t expecting much, I hadn’t really seen a wave break before I parked, but
I did notice a few heads out. Once I made it down to the lot and saw the other
surfers out there, I truly felt like I understood. Yes, I never thought I’d be
the surfer who sees ankle slappers and says, “Fuck yes, this is me, this is who
I am! I am stoked!” And now, to see how many other surfers still opted to
paddle out despite the forecast, I truly realize that I am one of them. I am
that guy who just wants to paddle out every day. I see my future self, old and
weathered, still doing this routine for as long as I can.
So I
paddled out at 45th. Nothing to really see here. I didn’t expect
much, so I was fine just waiting for some ankle slappers, and then it happened.
It was bigger than ankle slappers. We’re talking thigh and hip slappers! But
the waves were breaking a little long and fast. I would’ve been better off with
the Skipper, but I thought it’d be weaker.
Even
then, the surf still got a little better. With the tide going higher, there
were these occasional set waves that broke further out at about waist high. I still
pulled in, never making it out, but it was a lot funner than expected; better
than both Goldenwest and the local afternoon sesh on Saturday.
I don’t
have any memorable rides, but I just remember feeling good, like I had scored.
Despite the forecast, I chanced it and had to see and experience it for myself,
and it was well worth it.
No comments:
Post a Comment