Time: 0645-0745
Conditions: glassy, swampy, 2 Ft., inconsistent
Board: Zippifish
I
listened to the Surf Gawds at Surfline and believed them when they said two-to-three
feet plus down south. I knew that the tide would be working against us, so we
made the O.G. call to dawn patrol it.
Getting
up that early for a change was kind of nice. Normally, I’m up at 0700, but not
that day. Nope. We were on the freeway, driving before the sun was up. Even
when we parked, there was barely light breaking the dark sky.
I
hoped for something, anything to surf. HB usually stands up more than waves in
the South Bay, and we wouldn’t need much, especially with our big, chunky
boards. Even if we only got an hour of decent surf, it would be worth it.
Se we
hit the street parking, slapped on our slippers (lots of glass in these parts),
and we walked our asses down to the beach. At first glance, it didn’t seem
swampy yet, just…small…slow. And then, lo and behold, a set popped up. It
looked almost three feet, and suddenly there were lines. The ocean was alive. I
felt great, like there was potential.
Our
first couple of waves were actually decent. For a small HB day it was kind of
classic: fast shoulders, fast drop, racy section, tagging the lip before closing
out. And then…after a few waves, the tide came up just enough to make
everything inconsistent. The few other surfers in the water, too, were just
sitting like turds in a toilet; we all were. Fock. Then when the sets did come,
the rides got way shorter. Like, fast drop, one pump, bog out into swamp city.
Soon the center of HB Cliffs completely shut down. We had to paddle more south
to sit on legit Goldenwest, and even then it was too late. 45 minutes into the
session and there really wasn’t anything to catch.
That’s
just the way it goes sometimes. We try to make the best call to catch some
semblance of a wave. It doesn’t always work out.
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