I was stuck in Orange County for the whole day, but I was determined to get wet before the sun went down. I got to Porto two minutes before 6:00 PM. Anyone that knows the south bay knows that, at this time of year, you’re surfing in the dark by 6:45 PM. There was no warm up necessary. I immediately put my wetsuit on and rushed 45th. The tide seemed a little low, but that didn’t matter because there was swell! There were 5 foot waves with open faces, mostly lefts.
Sure, it was a little windy, and there was some chop. It was by no means a “clean” evening, but there was size and shape, and that’s all that mattered. The coastline had a decent amount of surfers for it being that late. There was still people trying to rush it just like me. I was surprised that there weren’t more people there on a day like that. I had to compete a little with some of the people in the water, but I didn’t care because I was on a mission. Time was critical, sunlight was burning away, and I had to get as many waves as possible.
I wish I could’ve enjoyed the scenery and surf with some of my buds. The sunset and remnants of orange light reflecting on the texture filled water left me in awe and speechless. I could only stare, gaze, and appreciate.
My first wave was a left. I have been concentrating so much on rights that my performance hasn’t improved going front side. I popped up and drew a high line. I didn’t have enough speed, and I tried to do a tail slide on the shoulder and fell. Another left came where I tried to pump my board to gain more speed again, but the up and down pumping motion actually made my feet leave my board. It was like my body wanted to go faster, but I couldn’t make the board go with me. I thought that I knew how to pump my board to gain speed all along, but I guess I don’t know shit. My brother tried to explain it to me and told me to do the same carving motion that you would do on a skateboard. To me, that’s a little confusing because when I’m going backside, all I need to do is use the momentum of the wave to set me up for a hack. I need to practice his advice, but I also think that I need to draw a different line when going left.
My last wave was a right, which I had to out-paddle another guy to get in it. It was more of a closer, but I remember it being so dark that I had no depth perception on where the face was, or if I was going to purl or not. I called it at about 6:40 PM. I wish I would’ve got there earlier to take advantage of the awesome conditions. My anticipation was high for the following morning.
Sunday, October 24, 2010
A PORTO AFTERNOONER: FRI 10/22/2010
Al drove off to Trestles, and I stayed local to check out Porto in the AM. I got to the lot at first light, and the waves were small and crumbling on shore. There was also a hellacious wind. I text Shan and advised that he keep counting sheep.
I headed back out to the lot at about 5:00 PM. The waves were still breaking close to shore, but there was a little size, maybe 4 - 5 ft. The shape was horrible, and everything looked like a quick ride. It was awfully messy with a lot of chop. It reminded me of the pier session, but this was more consistent with a little better shape.
There were about 5 guys out with me in front of 45th. The sun was low on the horizon, shining for the first time in days. I didn’t expect much, and I didn’t have much time because I had to pick up Lauren from work. Right when I got to the line I caught a left that didn’t have much shape to it. After that it was nothing but frustration under a beautiful sunset. The rest of the time I was scratching out on waves. What really surprised me was that every 5 minutes a rogue set of waves would break really far out on the outside, much too far to paddle for if you were at the line up. At least they weren’t dumpy, and even though they were big, they would feather out at the top and start to crumble.
My second and last wave of the day came from one of these sets. I caught a right that surprisingly opened up a little. The section ended up reforming on the inside before the shore. As the wave jacked up I was able to get a little spray off the top before it closed out. After I hit the lip I was racing over the shallow sand until I stepped off the rail.
The session wasn’t great, but I felt that it was a precursor of better things to come. And even though I only caught two waves, I think that they were two of the better looking waves of that evening.
I headed back out to the lot at about 5:00 PM. The waves were still breaking close to shore, but there was a little size, maybe 4 - 5 ft. The shape was horrible, and everything looked like a quick ride. It was awfully messy with a lot of chop. It reminded me of the pier session, but this was more consistent with a little better shape.
There were about 5 guys out with me in front of 45th. The sun was low on the horizon, shining for the first time in days. I didn’t expect much, and I didn’t have much time because I had to pick up Lauren from work. Right when I got to the line I caught a left that didn’t have much shape to it. After that it was nothing but frustration under a beautiful sunset. The rest of the time I was scratching out on waves. What really surprised me was that every 5 minutes a rogue set of waves would break really far out on the outside, much too far to paddle for if you were at the line up. At least they weren’t dumpy, and even though they were big, they would feather out at the top and start to crumble.
My second and last wave of the day came from one of these sets. I caught a right that surprisingly opened up a little. The section ended up reforming on the inside before the shore. As the wave jacked up I was able to get a little spray off the top before it closed out. After I hit the lip I was racing over the shallow sand until I stepped off the rail.
The session wasn’t great, but I felt that it was a precursor of better things to come. And even though I only caught two waves, I think that they were two of the better looking waves of that evening.
Friday, October 22, 2010
MANHATTAN PIER: THURS 10/21/2010
Al came down from Norcal, so we decided to check out Porto with Shan in the afternoon. Despite the recent rain, Shan and I have been a little desperate for rain, and some shit infested bacteria wasn’t going to stop us. Porto was horrible. It was around one o’clock in the afternoon, the tide was low, and the wind was strong. We then got free parking at Manhattan Beach and walked to the pier. There were two paddle boarders out, and it looked a little better, but far from promising. The sun was out, and it was getting warm. It seemed like a good idea at the time, but we all were willing to get wet.
We hiked back up the hill to change, but when we came back the two SUP’s and the sun were gone, and the waves looked like they got smaller. Al was the only one in a wet suit. We paddled out just south of the pier. The waves were breaking really close to shore. The wind created choppy surf and unpredictable scattered peaks. We all got a couple waves, but none of quality. Every time I was on a wave I was already nearing the shore by the time I got my bearings. No one else was in the water at all. We looked like a bunch of idiots out there. We eventually paddled all the way next to the pier in hope to get some rights. This was the best part of the session. Even though the waves sucked, it filled me full of adrenaline to see the approaching waves building off of the pier, then eventually forming a right shoulder. The waves were getting a little bit bigger. I got one right off of the pier that opened up a little. Because the tide was low, the waves were fast. Right after I popped up, my board began to skip across the surface from all of the speed. I regained my composure and got a couple carves before I stepped off the rail. I tried the north side of the pier, and the shape was even shittier on that side.
I went back to the south side of the pier again, and Shan was heading back to his car. Al and I went for a suicide drop on a walled right that came in. Both of us got pitched over and obliterated simultaneously.
The session was over. Bacteria water trapped in my sinuses, we walked back to the car un stoked. Al kept asking me why I love this place, and how it’s possible that there are ever any waves here. The last time Al surfed the south bay was about this time last year, and that day wasn’t too great. Al has never seen the potential of this place. I told him that this place gets good … when it’s good.
We hiked back up the hill to change, but when we came back the two SUP’s and the sun were gone, and the waves looked like they got smaller. Al was the only one in a wet suit. We paddled out just south of the pier. The waves were breaking really close to shore. The wind created choppy surf and unpredictable scattered peaks. We all got a couple waves, but none of quality. Every time I was on a wave I was already nearing the shore by the time I got my bearings. No one else was in the water at all. We looked like a bunch of idiots out there. We eventually paddled all the way next to the pier in hope to get some rights. This was the best part of the session. Even though the waves sucked, it filled me full of adrenaline to see the approaching waves building off of the pier, then eventually forming a right shoulder. The waves were getting a little bit bigger. I got one right off of the pier that opened up a little. Because the tide was low, the waves were fast. Right after I popped up, my board began to skip across the surface from all of the speed. I regained my composure and got a couple carves before I stepped off the rail. I tried the north side of the pier, and the shape was even shittier on that side.
I went back to the south side of the pier again, and Shan was heading back to his car. Al and I went for a suicide drop on a walled right that came in. Both of us got pitched over and obliterated simultaneously.
The session was over. Bacteria water trapped in my sinuses, we walked back to the car un stoked. Al kept asking me why I love this place, and how it’s possible that there are ever any waves here. The last time Al surfed the south bay was about this time last year, and that day wasn’t too great. Al has never seen the potential of this place. I told him that this place gets good … when it’s good.
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