CRUMBS, FRI 8.05.2011 EVE

Crew: J

Met: Haena (J's GF), Steve, and Trish

Time: 1830- 2000, 1 hr. & 30 min.

Conditions: Low tide and getting lower, sunny, warm, onshore wind, choppy, 1-2 feet, close-outs.

     I get released from work early. I don't plan on surfing at all today, but J shoots me a text and says that he's surfing Porto around five o'clock. Based on the surf cams, the tide, and the forecast, it's too easy to be picky this evening. However, the last time I saw J was weeks before I left to Bali, so the paddle out feels worth it just to see a friend. Besides, why have lunch or coffee with someone to catch up when you can just paddle out for a surf?

     He gets there late because his bus broke down on the 105. I haven't seen him in a while, so I can tell he's lost some weight. He's holding his fun board and wearing boardshorts with a rash guard. I have my trunks with me, but I remember my recent hypothermia session and easily pass. He introduces me to his girlfriend Haena. He doesn't realize that I've met her before when they were just dating, but I go along with it. The waves are crumbly, breaking close to shore, and small. It's not the fun evening sessions that I've caught with Khang and Dais, but I want to catch up with J.

     In the water he tells me about his summer trip to Alaska and his recent trips surfing Mexico. I get as much intel from him as possible. I've feared Mexico from all the recent kidnappings and other drug related violence, but he assures me that you can play it safe. Unfortunately, the trip that he was planning for this month conflicts with a prior obligation, so it looks like it won't happen until September.

     I'm tired from my long day, but I try to scratch into a small left that breaks late. Since the waves break closer to shore, they close out faster. I wipe out on my first wave. On my second, I fall prematurely. I'm having an “off” session. Meanwhile, J and Haena are effortlessly catching these small pounders early with their big boards.

     J converses with other people around us, and then I realize that members of his surf group are there. J surfs independent of the DRC, and his outgoing personality gains him many friends in the water. He introduces me to his friend Steve, who he went to college with, and his other friend Trish. In conversation, J reminds me that he's already been to Bali, and he tells me a story about how he and Steve unexpectedly ran into each other on their last trips there. I feel like an idiot. I've been fooling myself thinking that Bali is surfing's equivalent to climbing Mount Everest, when in reality lots of people go there all the time. Their ability to relate keeps me humble.

     It's a mellow sunset surf session. I start catching waves, but none of the rides are quality. Regardless, J's people are cool, the energy is good, and I'm happy to catch up with a friend. The current takes everyone north, but I paddle to maintain in front of the volley ball net by the bathrooms. On paddling back out after a wave, I see a seal swimming where the waves are breaking, and then I start to think about Shark Week on the Discovery Channel. I see J walking back to his car. It's almost eight o'clock, so I catch a closer in. J invites me to dinner with him and Haena, but I opt to go home. He says, “I'm sure you learned a lot in Bali. I can't wait to get some surf time with you to see you rip!” I laugh at his comment and tell him that Bali humbled me, and that I don't think I'll be ripping.

     J's going to Trestles tomorrow. Lucky bastard. I'll be at work this weekend while the surf is thumping at all south facing beaches. I hope my buddies get it while they can.

BREAKFAST BUFFET, WED 8.03.2011 MOR

Crew: Francis, Christina, Deathwish Dave

Time: 0700- 0930, 2 hrs. & 30 min.

Conditions: Light onshore wind, extremely foggy with low visibility, cool temperatures, 2-3ft.+, consistent.

     Francis really wanted to head to HB, but I've been holding out, especially with the likeliness of the wind. After all, it's also nice to just surf local and drive a couple miles to get home for a change. I told him that I'd be at Parks, and he was down. I tex'd Chris, Khang, and Dave in case they wanted to join.

     Low tide is just after 0600, so I take my time waking up and head out at 0630. I score a free parking spot on 27^th. It doesn't look very appetizing out there. I haven't seen a clean, glassy morning since my first two Porto sessions upon my return from Bali. Texture's all over the surface as the wind knocks down the waves. I can see the sets coming in, and there's potential for some short rides. I shoot the text to let everyone know where I'll be. I almost regret not bringing the full suit. The morning air is much cooler than the last couple of mornings. I wonder if I'll suffer because of my short sleeves.

     It's too early for the place to be packed. There's an old Japanese longboarder in the water that I've seen for the last four days straight. The tide is still low, so I walk out just behind the line up. On the way out I duckdive a couple rideable waves. Once I'm sitting in the water, the waves look much better than they did from shore. Three foot waves form in the distance, but the low tide makes them close out. I talk to the longboarder, and he comments on how the inside is shallow. Then he looks up and says, “Oh no, clouds!” It's sunny, but the wind is pushing the low marine layer over the Manhattan homes. Ten minutes later the sun disappears, and we can barely make out the waves over the deep sea.

     Despite the poor rating from surfline, the waves are rideable and consistent. Sure, the wind is messing it up, but there are still shoulders mixed in with the closeouts. Also, the pulse from the new swell is undeniable. I catch a lot of fast rides to start the sessions. Some of the waves hold shape on the inside, good for a little distance and pumping.

     At about 0730 I turn around to see Francis walking out. The tide's come up a bit, it's still shallow, but the waves don't lose their energy. We both trade off waves; it's literally another wave buffet, just a messy one. I've always felt that foggy conditions make the waves look bigger. Since you only see them at the last second, they are always a surprise. And honestly . . . I don't mind the change of scenery. The South Bay tends to do this, and there's no doubt about the sun shining just over the hill.

     At 0815 Christina joins us. Her and Francis talk about Power Yoga. Apparently, Francis and Nicole went yesterday, but they missed the class with Christina. I manage to get a couple waves with good shape. I pull off a couple turns on some rights, but I pump and go for imitation barrels on the lefts.

     Maybe ten minutes later, Deathwish Dave is in the water; there are four of us. It's not a bad showing of people. The overcast keeps the crowds light, and surfers are so spread out that we all have freedom to maneuver. At about 0830 is when the window of good surf opens. The tide is at the perfect height where it's no too swampy, and the inside's not so shallow any more. Junky peaks continue to form in the distance, but all that matters is that they have shoulders. Christina and Dave let the current take them north, pretty far away from us. I'm tired, but I continue to fight the current.

     After the second hour, things get a little swampy. There are still waves, but we get our first legit lulls of the morning. I'm surprised at how empty the lineup has been. People must've looked out their windows or looked at the surf report and thought that it wasn't worth it. Excellent. Stay home, everyone. Leave the waves to us. At 0930 I'm spent. My paddling arms are weary, and I'm getting hungry. I wave to Christina. She waves back, but she doesn't understand the message that we're leaving. 

$3.99 are you out of your mind?!

     Francis and I go to Mandy's in El Segundo for their breakfast special: 2 hot cakes, 2 sausages, 2 strips of bacon, and 2 eggs. And for how much? $3.99. It's a no brainer. The sun's nice and bright away from the ocean, and we sit outside to enjoy its rays. We part ways and leave the option for an evening session open. I head to Surf Concepts in Manhattan Beach. I'm not sure about surfboards, but everything is 25% off until Sunday. I need to buy wax, but I splurge on an FCS poncho towel. The price is knocked down to $33. Why not make changing at the beach a little bit easier? Now I'm home, Francis just tex'd me to ask about an evening session. I really think that I'll just take it easy. I have work on Friday, and I've surfed for the last ten days straight. Tomorrow will be dedicated to preparing for the weekend. Next week my friend has a camping spot at San Onofre, so I plan to get more surfing in there. All in all, the South Bay has been fun after getting skunked so much down south. Wind, gray skies, cold water, and short rides, we make them worth it.

THE PORTO 500, TUE 8.02.2011 EVE

Crew: Dais & Khang

Time: 1845- 1945, 1 hr.

Conditions: Onshore wind, scattered peaks, choppy, consistent, fast, sunny, cold water temp, 3 feet.

     Yesterday Khang said that he and Dais would surf this afternoon for sure. Dais texts me in the afternoon to let me know that they'll be there around five. I catch up with my blogs today and make it out the door by 1820. I don't have any quarters, so I stop at the laundry mat to make some change. There's a long line at the traffic light just to make that right turn down 45^th St. Dais calls and asks if I have wax. I'm actually down to a couple wax strips from my last bar. I tell them I'll be there in ten seconds. The parking lot is crowded, but at least there isn't a line of cars. I give Khang some wax and ask, “What happened to you this morning?”

     “Oh, we ended up surfing here at about eight. We stayed in until ten. It wasn't that good.”

     “Really? 26^th was all right. I thought it was fun.” They offer to wait for me, but I tell them that time's wasting and to just go out without me. I have my wetsuit, but I decide to trunk it like this morning. As I approach the shore, I see them making it past the white wash. I enter the water, and it's fucking cold. I tell myself that it'll pass. The inside is bombarded by white wash; it never lets up. I'm surprised at the effort that it takes to get out. It looks a little smaller than yesterday but with the same effect. It's windy and choppy, but the waves are coming in steep and fast. Dais is the first one I see to catch a wave. My first wave is a left, but I slip on the drop and spend my short ride on my ass. The section is too fast on my second wave and leaves me behind. Meanwhile Khang sits near his same spot as yesterday and gets long rides right off the bat. I turn to Dais and say, “Khang's new name is Magneto!”

     “Why?”

     “Because he's a fucking wave magnet!” I'm only twenty minutes into the session, and I'm shivering. I don't know how Dais and Khang aren't cold. Maybe it's my drop in weight, I barely have any fat covering my body; I'm like a skeleton nowadays.

     Khang says, “Hey, my body fat is probably just as warm as your 2/2.” He must be right because I'm wondering if I should go back to the car to change real quick. I get some nice T&Gs that shoot me down the line fast. I have to point my nose and steer down the line. I can't get any turns, but it's fun and fast. We're all catching waves. Dais paddles, disappears, and then I see that he actually snaked Khang who's behind him. My best wave is a right-hander that jacks up in front of me. The mooshy shoulder reforms on the inside, and I'm able to do two top turns. I try like hell to get some spray, but the shape is ugly. 

     The whole session is like a race. The waves never stop, the inside is consistent, and the rides are fast and pitchy. It seems that none of us have a chance to rest. I'm panting the whole time. At one point I feel my chest just to feel my heart; it's beating furiously to keep me in the game. These evenings are like the surfing version of the Indy 500.

     I get another set wave, but it closes out. I catch the white wash to shore. There's still some time to surf, but all I want to do is grab my bottle of hot water and pour it over myself. The guys come out ten minutes later. It's another score for an evening session. Right now, the South Bay seems to be delivering.