BRO’S BIRTHDAY SESH AT HUNTINGTON: WED 11.10.2010 MORN

BRO’S BIRTHDAY SESH AT HUNTINGTON:  WED 11.10.2010 MORN

    Originally, Shan, Tim, Randy, and I were supposed to all surf together.  Randy wasn’t sure if he wanted to surf the OC or come up to L.A. since the surf has been pretty good up here.  He didn’t let me know until about 6:40 A.M. where he wanted to surf.  In fact, he said he didn’t want to surf.  I was glad that I got him to change his mind.  After all, it was his birthday.  The decision came in too late to wait for Shan.  I showed up in HB, and Tim was too tired to surf and had to study.  It ended up just being me and Randy.  He said the surf sucked yesterday.  We parked at about 9:30 A.M.  The wind was already up, and the morning crowd was leaving.  At that point we didn’t expect much, but when we walked out between towers five and six we saw two consistent peaks breaking.  Even though there was wind and choppy water, those peaks couldn’t have been any better for those conditions.  They were about three feet, and no beach in the South Bay that I’ve been to breaks like that.  Like I’ve told my brother many times, “I’ve never seen a bad day in Huntington.”

    I told my bro my concerns as of late:  shitty duck dive and front side bottom turn.  He kept telling me to crouch and spring up to project myself back up the lip for my forehand.  The tide was getting high, and it was a pretty long paddle out.  Thank goodness, the waves were easy, and not as “pitchy” as HB usually is for me.  Duck diving out to the line wasn’t that bad, but I was far from getting it down right.  I wiped out on the pop up on my first couple of waves.  It was the nervous energy from surfing with my bro and being at HB.  I’ve always done horrible at this place, but I hoped to change that. 

    I got some nice lefts, but without that bottom turn all I could to was trim hard and go down the line.  I attempted some bottom turns, but every time I crouched in the pocket, my rail duck in too hard and I fell.  I wasn’t springing out of the pocket at all.  My bro told me to extend myself to project up the face, but not to literally “spring” and lose my board.  Well, if there was any progress, then maybe it was the fetal stages of setting up the crouch. 

    I got some decent rights. My bottom turns going backside weren’t a problem.  I got two clean ones followed up by two top turns, both letting out some spray.  However, at this point I’m really not satisfied with only being able to pull that off on one side.  I am trying my best to put my time and effort into my lefts now. 
   
    As the tide reached its highest point, we had to paddle more south to some other peaks that were still firing.  The swell got a little bigger at four to five feet.  We had been in the water for over two hours, I was spent, and my bro was shivering his ass off.  Those damn Maui guys just can’t handle the cold weather.  *Joke*

    I took my brother out to Zenko’s Sushi in Mission Viejo for his birthday.  It was nice catching up with him and getting some face time.  It was one of the best birthdays I ever celebrated with him.  He told me that once I can bottom turn and top turn consistently throughout the whole ride, going front and back, that I will be ready to jump on the short board that he gave me, which is collecting dust in the corner of my apartment.  I look at that thing, and I can’t wait.