I was supposed to get up at first light, but I was too tired and had a lot of residue from the night before. At about 7:30 A.M. I saw a bright sun ray through the crack of my bedroom window. That’s when I knew that I was a piece of shit for not being in the water already. Since I missed out on the free parking at the Porto lot, I had to head over to 26th St. On the way over there I saw that there were waves by Hyperion Way; it was a good sign. I scored on free parking on 27th near the sand. There were the usual locals just north of 26th and scattered surfers all the way to Manhattan pier. I chose to paddle out south of the lifeguard tower. It was about eight o’clock. The sun was already emitting its piss rays, there wasn’t a cloud in the sky, and the air was warm. The tide was at mid level going to high, and the inside was full with roaring white water. I wasn’t looking forward to the possibility of another hard paddle out. That morning I felt better and more confident with my own equipment. I didn’t have a choice but to surf next to other people due to the crowd. I only got caught in the rip for a little while and was able to get into position. The waves were soft and mooshy because of the tide, but they still broke outside, and nice long rides were evident. I wasn’t sure how the session would go. It was my first clean session since I’ve been getting my ass kicked.
My first wave was a head high left. I pumped and was able to get a wide top turn which morphed into a half ass cut back. It felt good, and that set the tone for the rest of my session. I caught a right that was so clean and long that I got four top turns. I was trying really hard to throw some buckets, but they were more like pails. Oh well. I tell myself that my surfing will improve and all come together one day; I just have to be patient.
After about an hour the tide got too high for comfort. I popped up on a pretty big one, and just as I got the slide, the backwash ran into my wave. It ended up turning the face into a straight vertical drop. My front foot slipped forward which forced me to do the Olympic splits right there as I fell straight down. I was surprised that there were so many people out. The main peak was packed, but as I looked towards the pier all I could see was black suits as far as I could see.
On another note, after all my rides I found myself in the path of a lot of surfers. This always worries me. I’m always scared that one day I’m going to get jousted. Once the waves got too mooshy I left. I was satisfied with my session, and I felt like I was able to grasp my cock and balls again.
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