Shan, J, and I were supposed to surf at first light. It ended up being just me and J. I hadn’t seen him for a while, so we caught up in the parking lot and paddled out at 45th. The water wasn’t cold, and it was turning out to be another beautiful South Bay morning. It was 6:30 A.M., and we were the only ones out at our peak. I got worked a little on the inside, but I managed to get to the line up. The waves were about four to five feet. The shape was perfect when we got there; the peaks were really round and moundy. The shoulder was so juicy that it was just asking for you to gouge the hell out of it, and throw some spray. My first wave was another left, but this time I did a little better on my cutback attempt because I was able to bring my board back towards the left. As I top turned, I extended both arms and looked over my right shoulder. It was a nice, wide, arch. When I whipped my board back around it didn’t look as pretty. In fact, it looked like I stalled, then I somehow got the nose in the right direction again. I tried it for a second time, but I fell at the top turn. I didn’t care that it wasn’t perfect, it just felt so good to try something new. Eventually, I hope to have a good cut back in my arsenal. I am getting used to shifting my feet on my board to dig in the tail and rail to initiate the turn. It may not look awesome, but it feels fucking awesome.
Before the first hour was up, there were so many people surfing around us. It was a really crowded morning for a work day. It became harder to catch waves because of the other surfers. The Rastafarian crew was there, and even they got dropped-in on. We got a small handful of waves. As it got closer to eight o’clock, the tide came up and changed the water. We left, satisfied that we got it when it was good.
I am so tired right now.
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