MY OLD FRIEND, THE POTATO CHIP: WED 12.16.2010 EVE

MY OLD FRIEND, THE POTATO CHIP:  WED 12.16.2010 EVE

    My brother told me that Wednesday afternoon supposed to have some new swell.  He suggested that I go to check it out so that we could tell if the next day would be good.  Rick called me in the afternoon and said his brother, Manny, was paddling out because it looked fun.  It was about 3:00 P.M.  I grabbed my gear and head out the door. 

    I took the short board that my brother gave me because I thought there would be some size.  When I got to El Porto it was exactly the opposite:  weak and crumbly.   Rick drove there straight from work, so he didn’t have a board.  I let him use my Merrick which left me with the potato chip.  I had to hear Rick’s lecture about how I need to ride a bigger board, but I explained how I only brought it because I thought the waves would be bigger.

    We exchanged greetings with Manny and his other friends as they were leaving.  We paddled out in front of 45th.  One thing I noticed immediately was how much easier it was to duck dive with that little board.  Sure, I was slower, but I think that on bigger days I could save myself from getting worked so much by rogue waves and white wash.  Rick paddled more south and did his thing.  I struggled to get into the flaccid waves.  I had to catch them late; my pop up was a little slow, but I still was able to get some rides.  It’s too bad that the surf was weak because I bogged out instantly once I got on the face.  I could be blamed for my lack of skill, but I felt that I could’ve got some nice rides if it was better out there.  I pumped as hard as I could, but I just didn’t have the flotation and lift that my Merrick would give me. 
    By the time we left the parking lot it was already dark.  Even though I had the wrong board for the session, it was nice getting the feel of that board.  I was sinking on it, felt too heavy for it, but I am definitely ready for another board.