I met with J at first light, and it looked horrible. My brother told me that HB had a lot of wind, so it wasn’t a good idea to drive down south. I went back home.
I wanted to wait for the tide to come up, so I waited until about 3:30 P.M. before I headed back to Porto. The waves were just as bad as the day prior, but this time there was more wind. There were still some quick corners at the end of the long peaks, so I figured it would be worth a try. J showed up, and I told Shan were we would be.
J and I paddled in front of 45th before the crowd got there. The experience of duckdiving my short board on Wednesday helped my technique on this session. I felt that I was able to punch through better. The waves were mostly close outs, and we didn’t find ourselves in the right place. J was the first to catch some waves that actually opened up. The crowd started to drift into our spot, and by 4:30 P.M. we were sharing waves with a bunch of guys. Shan finally made it and paddled out to us while his lady waited on the cool evening sand. We drifted north from J, and I didn’t have much luck throughout the session. Shan caught a wave in, so I paddled to where J was.
It was already dark, but the water began to clean up a bit, and it wasn’t as choppy. Paul was out there with three other people from his surf crew. He didn’t recognize me, so I didn’t say anything to him. I finally got a decent right. I was able to bottom turn and get some spray off the top. J told me he saw it. It was only a “one turn” wave, but it made the session worth it.
Some chic was talking to J in the water about the Billabong Pipleline Masters. She said that Jeremy “Tores” won.
J said, “I think he’s from France.”
She said, “Yeah, he’s French, but he’s totally from California, or he lives in California."
I figured that it wasn’t worth getting involved in the conversation, but initially I couldn’t help but mentally roll my eyes at hearing that. I don’t have a wealth of knowledge when it comes to the surfing world, but this girl was totally off. I ended the session with a clean ass right. The only problem was that it was so dark that I couldn’t make out the face, so I didn’t get to hack the lip.
It was about 5:20 P.M. As I walked back to the lot I saw the meter maid out there giving tickets. I rushed to check my meter. It was good. I grabbed some change for J, but he was right behind me. About three guys got tickets. You have to play it safe at Porto. It’s better to lose another buck in change instead of forty dollars to the city of Manhattan Beach.
We made the best of it.
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