I was dying for surf since I cut my foot on Friday. I had to pass on a fun weekend (according to friends), and the beginning of the week. I felt like a bum and wished that I could get that rush of being on a wave again. Wednesday morning, I would try to do just that.
Shan met me at my apartment, and we took my car. We met up with J at Porto at first light. The tide was at about mid level and getting lower. We were surprised to see how dark it was. Usually there is a little bit of light coming out behind the Manhattan homes, but it was still dark as my anus. We paddled out in front of 45th. Unfortunately, my expectations weren’t met. The waves seemed to be fun when we first got there, but they became inconsistent, and the crowd started to show up. J left early, and I fed the meter at eight o’clock. We walked to Hammerlands and the jetty, but they weren’t going off. We walked to the stacks and paddled out in front of there. We only had to share that area with two other guys, but there wasn’t much to share. The lowering tide didn’t help much. We saw the potential in the waves, but they were walled, and the corners were too racy. We had a good wave count but were lucky to get a turn in. That morning was unfulfilled. We ended the session at Havana Sandwich Company in El Segundo. At least the food was good, but I was still feening for a good wave.
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