Time: ??
Conditions: Sunny, warm, inconsistent, 2-3 feet, crowded.
Churches:
It barely counts for a double session, but I didn't make the drive to paddle out only once. I'm watching Khang and Dais in front of me. They've drifted all the way from North Middles to South Churches. There seem to be scattered peaks on the inside, and some are unridden. I change into some shorts for a quick paddle out, an hour tops. I paddle up to the guys. They congratulate each other on going the distance for the first sesh. It's been hours at this point. Five maybe?
I paddle just outside of the main Churches' pack. It's crowded; I'm surrounded by groms. They take all the little waves, and I'm blessed with a few empty peaks here and there. Before I know it, I'm catching a handful of little waves. It's sad to admit this, but in the first twenty minutes I'm having more fun than I did in the morning session. At least there's a little shoulder to work with here and there. I goof around and pull off a couple walking 360s. It's looks stupid doing it on a shortboard, but it's one of the few tricks that I can claim in my vacant repertoire or lack thereof. However, I do pull one off very clean. I turn around for recognition. I think I get a thumbs up from Klaude.
I get more small waves, but it's time to go home. We pack up and GTFO. Damn, what a shame. I guess we all pay our skunk dues today. It's just the way it is sometimes. You can't plan to score; it just happens. Maybe that's why some of our best sessions are when we're alone, when we least expect it.
Maybe that's why some of our best sessions are when we're alone, when we least expect it.
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and yes, khang, dais, lauren and i saw your clean 360 walk up to the nose. maybe you should ride a longboard some days too?
I've thought about it. I'm just so damn stubborn. I already know myself. The second I surf a different board I'll be cursing myself for losing "thruster time." One day, when I can rip, which means . . . when I'm too old to ride a thruster.
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