MORE THAN WAVES, DAY 2 (double sesh), SUN 24JUN2012 EVE

Loc: Churches

Crew: Briana

Time: 1830-1945

Conditions: 2-3, calm, clean, clear

Barf:

     You ever see that couple that’s so into each other that they make you sick? Yeah, that’s pretty much me and Briana for the whole day. After cooking breakfast, we lie out in the sun, drinking beer, just enjoying one another. It’s the first time in my life that I’ve ever relaxed this much. I mean, usually I’m sitting in a chair, walking around, checking the surf reports, or maybe reading. Nope, today, it’s all about being next to each other and doing nothing. Perhaps looking at the sky, a slight shift of the umbrella to keep the sun out, a sip out of my cup, a kiss, a nuzzle, and then back to the blue sky. Little kids play around us, and there we are, lovey-dovey in the most obnoxious of ways. We don’t even pay attention to the little kids or their parents, but we must be selling the spot because people are asking us how much it costs to get the campsite, and these aren’t even the ones with electricity.

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     Briana suggests that we go in for a dip. The water’s cold, so she starts heading back up the sand. It’s a classic, cliché Hollywood movie scene. I splash her and chase her up the beach, smothering her with my cold water. I want to pick her up, but I’m worried she’ll lose her bikini or I’ll drop on a stone. When the commotion calms, I realize that four other couples on the beach are watching us. We attracted a lot of attention.

     Once we’re done swimming around, we walk past a young couple. It’s an Asian chick wearing a Fedora hat who’s caked with make-up, and her Marine boyfriend. She says, “Oh my god, you guys actually went in the water. Props!” She gives a huge smile and a thumbs up. Meanwhile her boyfriend refuses to acknowledge. In fact, he looks pissed off.

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     We resupply for beer and dinner. Fucking perverts are everywhere in the Commissary. These buffneck fire department guys are totally checking out Briana. Well, nothing else for me to do but play it cool. I add the surf bum slouch and flip-flop dragstep. Fuck it, I’m that guy that other guys point to and say, “How in thee FUCK did he get her?” Haters gonna hate, yo. . . . It definitely ain’t the money or the car, I can tell you that much.

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     Briana has some decent cuts on her feet, worthy for the cobblestone dues that Trestles demands. She’s tired. Surfing wise, this weekend is a lot to ask of a beginner, but we can’t skip the sunset sesh. I don’t know when we’ll be here again. We have to take advantage of it. THE MOMENT!

     I break a promise this weekend. I told her we’d surf Old Mans, but that’s not gonna happen, not when we can get waves to ourselves.

     We paddle out at Middles, but work our way towards North Churches because it’s breaking better over there. I get a random left, pump, set up for a frontside carve, but my JS feels too stiff and drags. I think I could’ve gotten away with the Tokoro. The ride sells the spot, and people start paddling closer. Still, there’s enough for everyone. Briana’s arms are tired, but she gets her rides all the same. We’re progress, not perfection, and she’ll be standing up and trimming soon enough, but standing isn’t even important right now.

     I don’t care about the lulls so long as a wave comes every once in a while. It’s been the theme of the weekend. This trip wasn’t totally about surfing, and neither is this blog. It’s about life and the life revolved around surfing. It’s about friends, people, relationships, family, and loved ones. It’s about expectations, disappointments, triumph, and success. It’s about being human and living in the moment, and right now, I wish this moment could last forever.

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     Since it’s Sunday night, everyone’s cleared out of camp. What was a day and night of intrusions yesterday has come to a halt. I only see a couple bonfires in the distance far away towards Old Mans. The beach is practically ours. Ours. Our bonfire, our smores, our drinks, our space, our stars, our waves crashing before us into the dead of night. Bundled up on the inflatable mattress in the tent with Briana, I can’t imagine anywhere else I’d want to be. Good night.