MORE THAN WAVES, SAT 23JUN2012 MOR

Loc: Middles

Crew: Briana

Time: 0800-1030

Conditions: 2 FT, occasional 3, light onshore, inconsistent

     We reach San Onofre at about 0730. Initially, I wanted to take her to Old Man’s, but there are too many heads out there. Since Briana didn’t get to catch any waves at PV, I’m thinking she’ll be better off surfing where it’s less crowded. Churches isn’t that crowded yet, probably from the bad forecast and gray skies. It looks cold out, but we’re gonna do it anyway.

     We walk to North Churches and paddle out just where Middles starts. For the whole morning, we have the place to ourselves. I manage to get a couple waves, but they aren’t that good; it’s just too small. I think I get one top turn. The Trestles area is so soft as it is, easy, rippable on a good day with some size, but there is no size. It’s perfect for beginners, perfect for Briana.

     I put my main focus on her, and try to set her up for some waves. She gets pounded on the inside. She knows how to turtle dive the board, but she keeps losing it. Practice, practice, practice. However, when we get to the lineup, she tries to go for everything. Even when she’s too far inside and the waves are breaking on top of her, she’s still paddling and going for them, kamikaze style, the DRC way.

     She doesn’t stand up, but she kneels. Not bad for a legit surf session for a beginner. We paddle out and clean up before 1100, and then I take her around Old Man’s to show her the Hoedads. The weekend’s off to a good start.