Loc: Palos
Verdes
Crew: Bri
Time: 1700-1830
Conditions:
2-3 FT, low tide, glassy, inconsistent, soft, mooshy, cool.
Bri’s not talking to me when I pull up to
The Cove. She’s mad . . . I’m mad. I have work this weekend which means I won’t
get to surf for the next two days, so getting in the water ASAP is paramount. She was about to piss in her
pants, and she couldn’t hold it. We only had ten more minutes to drive, so . .
. I was being a dick when I had to
stop short of our destination so she could use the bathroom.
The silence is thick. I give-in and
apologize.
#
The waves look good from the top. About
twenty longboarders are down there. Even though the rest of the South Bay is
onshore, the wind is calm over here.
I didn’t even bother to bring the Zippy. I’m
on the JS like I was in the morning. We’re not at Manhattan Beach because it
was walled when we drove by, so now we’re here.
We lock up and trot down the sharp, brittle
trail. The water’s cold, a little too cold for my 2/2 short-sleeve wetsuit. I
tell Bri to follow me, and I paddle us right into some shallow rocks. We have
to stand and walk to deeper water again.
Once we’re on the outside, I see it’s
smaller than it looked from the hill. The sets are three feet, but it’s mooshy.
PV needs to be bigger than five-feet to be fun on a thruster. I curse myself
for not having Zippy.
#
These waves are perfect for Bri. It’s been
over four months since I took her here for the first time. That first date,
none of us caught any waves because it was too small and the tide was too high.
Right now, she’s having trouble getting
into the waves. It’s almost too mooshy compared to this morning’s pitch-fest.
Since we’re not at the main peak, our waves aren’t as long, but she manages to
paddle into one . . . and then a couple . . . and then a couple more. She’s in
classic San Onofre form, not catching every wave but confident and catching at
least half of them. This place is too easy, too mellow not to have a stoked
longboard sesh.
I wait for the plus-sized sets, but I can’t
manage to get a turn. Either way, Bri’s learning really fast. I remind myself
how lucky I am to be with someone who I can share surfing with.
#
We stay until it’s dark. Only two people
are still out there when we leave. Other people are changing in what’s left of
the faint horizon. The majestic cliffs are dark with just a couple houses on
top with their lights on. Bri’s stoked. She says she’s perfectly fine with
surfing PV any time.
She never
brings up that I was being a dick earlier about having to pull over so she
could piss.
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